Balkan Adventures

Ride Epilogue

2007-07-01T10:58:00.000-07:00

While getting to Finland had certainly proved the immense challenge I had expected, my travel back to Albania via bus, train and plane proved almost as arduous as the fours weeks it took to get to Jyvaskyla and shall form a separate blog entry shortly.

The physical stress/challenge of the ride was reasonably easy to predict. However, it was those unforeseen issues that really provided the challenges (much of it psychological): spoke failures, chains snapping, road surfaces turning to gravel, crashes, rain and wind, lack of water, relentless climbs that appear to have no end (when you are on them). However, on the other side of the scale are: friendly, helpful locals; support from family and friends; stunning scenery; seeing Europe from a rarely-seen perspective; being humble and accepting assistance from strangers. Mark Twain said he did not fear for the future of the human race when he saw someone on a bicycle. I feel the same way as a result of the wonderful people I met along my route courtesy of my bicycle.

I had spent 20 days in the saddle covering 2,831 kilometres. The necessity of train travel to Budapest, and the re-routing based on road surface scuppered the chance of breaking the 3,000 mark. However, I certainly feel I have completed my own ‘Tour’. And those lads in France don’t even tow a trailer – lightweights!!

During the course of my 3-weeks of pedalling the following stats were racked up:

20 – days in the saddle
2,831 - total km
154 – average km/day (taking out the two 25 km days for train and ferry)
214 – most km in one day
25 – least km in one day
3 – most number of countries in one day (Albania, Montenegro, Serbia)
6 - most days in one country (Poland)
70 – fastest speed (km/h)
5 – slowest speed (km/h)
26.6 – highest average speed (km/h – on the 214 km to Tallinn)
16.2 - lowest average speed (km/h – on the 132 km to Poprad)
6 – punctures
2 – rear cassettes used
3 –chains used
2 – bottom brackets used
7.5 – most litres of fluid (2 gallons) consumed in one day (June 9, Poland/Lithuania)
12 – total number of countries pedalled through
132 – hours in the saddle
88,830 – calories burned

Taking a closer look at the calories burned, I could have fuelled my trip on: 297 Snickers bars; 634 cans of Coke; 1,057 chocolate biscuits; or 25.5kg/56 lbs of pasta (dry weight); or any combination thereof.

Thank you to all of you who: provided me with support, whether moral, or in person; made a financial contribution to the ride campaign; read the blog; offered words of encouragement or support. Special thanks to: YMCA of the USA and the World Service department for processing financial contributions; YMCA Europe for allowing me to make this trip; YMCA Krakow and Latvia for arranging housing and fundraising for the ride (Krakow); Adam Rychlik for the spare tire; and Lene Fretheim for support-and-gear and companionship; my bro, Geoff, for letting my crash at his place (for several days longer than expected).

Many people, including myself at one point, referred to this as a once in lifetime trip. While I would certainly make changes to future ‘expeditions’ – namely have a ride companion(s) and somewhat shorter daily distances – the next trip is already floating around my mind. While talking late one night, Geoff suggested a ride down the length of Norway. I of course pounced on that and am trying to talk our other brother, Richard into it also. And yes, I have already checked my map and worked out a possible route. It is very tentatively planned for next summer. Then there is the matter of finishing my ride from N. Carolina, USA to Nova Scotia, Canada. Shannon, you are put on notice. And an idea which has been at the back of my mind for a few years now: Vancouver, Canada to Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. Hmmm – how far is that? Need a new map.

Of course all that will have to wait. Next week I check-in to the Betty Ford clinic to detox from caffeine and sugar.

June 20: Sysma to Jyvaskyla - 116 km

2007-07-01T10:52:00.000-07:00

One of the factors that has made the biggest difference to my mindset on this trip is how early I get on the road in the morning. Earlier is better as it allows that ‘magic’ number of 100 km to be reached as early as possible. With this in mind, I was away before 8. I had been aiming for 7, but given the fact that it is hard to get so sleep before midnight in this part of the world at this time of year, due to the light, I was happy with this.

My ride plan was simple: scream through 50 km before stopping. This, I figured, would be about halfway for the day. Despite the continued hills the forest provided me with protection from the wind, and without this invisible wall pushing me backwards I was flying. It was a sunny, but cold day and I was dressed in winter gear – calf-length shorts, shoe covers, arm warmers. I had taken 4 chocolate bars with me and excess water with the intention of getting to Korpilahti before refuelling. In Finland of all places I had set my fastest speed of the trip – 70 km/h (45 mph) on a descent. (The descents in the Balkans/Tatras were probably steeper but they were also twistier, forcing me to brake much more frequently). I was very low on food, as I had eaten most of it due to high intensity effort of the morning thus far. I am sure it was my mood and not actually lack of blood sugar, but I seemed to be going slower than before, and all I could think about was where could I buy food.

Then as I swept downhill around a right hand curve I saw Lene pulled over in bus lay-by. My mood instantly improved. It continued to improve as I consumed a sandwich, crisps, chocolate, biscuits and whatever else she had in the car. Yes, really, this whole support-crew thing cannot be overrated. The pros have it made – new wheel, food, water, extra blood cells when you need it!

I was now into the last 40 km of my trans-European ride. Despite the food my energy seemed low and I did the only reasonable thing I could: I stopped and got help from the nutrition team in Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Yep, it was time for the last Coke of the ride. Fortified by caramel, various e-numbers and caffeine I drove on towards Jyvaskyla. Lene was waiting at the Jyvaskyla (region) sign and we took the photo I had been dreaming of: the bike hoisted high above my head in celebration with the sign in the background.

I remember my first view of Jyvaskyla clearly: crossing the bridge over the main road and seeing the top of the clock tower and church. I was there! I duly passed the city limit sign at exactly 14:30, though truth be told I had no idea where I was in Jyvaskyla relevant to the landmarks I knew (train station, University). I resisted the temptation to follow signs to Paviljonki on the main road (my brother’s house is next to the pavilion) and was rewarded by being led directly to the train station. I bumped up the curb to the right and took the bike bridge over the 12+ tracks. I SMSed Lene to say I would be there in two mins. Less than 60 secs later I was at the front door to my bro’s apartment complex. The workmen were eyeing me with a combination of interest and suspicion.

I had done it. I was here – from Albania! Somewhat strangely I did not feel this great sense of euphoria. Maybe because there was no welcoming party to congratulate me /celebrate with - Geoff was in Chicago and the locals could have cared less. It was just another day in the saddle safely negotiated. A shower, clean clothes and food were in order.

June 19: Helsinki to Sysma - 173 km

2007-07-01T10:44:00.000-07:00

Got a later than planned start. However, the good side of this was that I had enjoyed a relaxed breakfast and leisurely start to the day. As had become the norm, leaving a metropolitan areas took time as I negotiated the many turns and traffic lights. However, the Finns have it worked out: bike paths run parallel to the busier roads and though a hassle to keep crossing back and forth following the path it was treat to be on a road for ‘non-motorised’ vehicles, though my opinion on this soon changed.

I quickly discovered that Finland was not as flat as I remembered, and although my speed was reasonable it seemed painfully slow compared to what I had expected – a Tallinnesque 25+ km/h average. This was not helped by the continual head wind that was causing my knees to ache once more. However, the forests and hills made the ride more interesting than the flat lands. I set me sights on reaching Mantsala and then Lahti.

I had quite possibly the worst meal of my trip in Mantsala (purchased from a supermarket): meat (??) sandwich, packet of crisps and a packet of 6 mini-doughnuts (though I could only manage three). They did not even sell Coke. Outrageous! In Lahti I stopped for a break and ice cream – despite the wind it was reasonably hot. No sooner I had tasted my first spoonful of Mango and Melon than the clouds darkened, the wind grew stronger and it started to rain!

I could not find the Sibelius music hall and other ‘attraction’ that the local man had directed me too, and following the brief detour into a local park where I finished the remaining doughnuts (even bad-tasting ones have calories) I pushed North. Despite the increase in wind I really enjoyed the terrain once I reached Vaaksy: I was surrounded by water and forests, as one would expect in Finland, and it was stunning in its simplicity and timeless beauty. The only problem? Surrounded by all this water, there was nowhere to buy any / re-fill water bottles.

I was only 35 km from Sysma but the headwind and hills had taken their toll and it seemed like an interminable distance. Lene SMSed and said she had just entered Sysma in the rental car. Great – she could bring me water. Buoyed by the knowledge that my H2O source would be replenished I turned the power on. We met just less than 20 km from Sysma and I re-stocked. (Why had I not arranged to have support on the previous 18 ride days? This was great.).

I rolled into the campground at 20:30 and found Lene talking to the proprietor. She asked how far I had come. “75 or 100 km?” “One hundred and seventy…..five” I replied. “Oh”, came the response, “75 -100 is what most people do”. I wanted to say “no half day’s for me” but resisted. We scrambled around for the right denominations of money – for whatever reason the landlady did not have the key to the till, her husband was in the sauna, and therefore she could not give change.

That done, and with ice lollipop in hand, we made camp near the water. We were the only tent campers that night. Lene had outdone herself and bought pizza and we ate it on the jetty while we watched the sun set - at 10:45 pm. After that we ate the various foods she had bought en route in the kitchen area provided. Then tiredness overwhelmed me.

June 18: Tallinn to Helsinki via ferry crossing - 25 km

2007-07-01T10:40:00.000-07:00

The rain had abated when I woke, but had obviously continued for most of the night. The tent was wet inside and it needed a repeat of my first morning’s drying technique: sleeping bags, pads, tent, towels and groundsheet were strung up into the wind. As we finished breakfast (toasted ciabatta and sausage again) the rain started once more. Hastily we packed up in an effort to prevent the fabric from getting too damp.

I had intended to ride the short distance to the ferry in ‘street’ clothes. However, with the rain now upon us there seemed little point in letting my one ‘civilian’ outfit get wet. We were all packed up, checked out, tires inflated, bike checked and it was time for the obligatory photo. That done we were off. Well, Lene was. In the 50 metres I had gone for the photo I had got a puncture! I was stressing – we had intended to leave for the ferry at 11:00 and it was already 11:15. I had visions of us missing the ferry due to pierced rubber. I am sure I looked annoyed, stressed and disbelieving simultaneously.

Lene went for the bus and I was on the road around 11:45. Having stopped and asked for directions at a petrol garage I arrived at Terminal C for the Nordic Jet Line at 12:15, a full 15 mins ahead of the deadline.

As told, I ‘checked in’ via the vehicle entrance and then stood in the rain and wind for 30 minutes, along with a couple on a motorbike. How I wished I was wearing their leathers – they looked so warm and comfortable. The complete opposite of how I felt. I of course was the last ‘vehicle’ to board and having secured the bike (against a pallet full of beer and a locked cage of other duty free goods) I joined Lene in the warm confines of the ship’s lounge. The crossing was smooth and we played cards most of the way – all you could see through the portals was grey sky or water.

Upon arrival in Finland it was still raining. I was once again the last off the boat and waited a while in the drizzle to clear passport control. But I was here – in my final country of this great adventure. Having failed to raise a response from the YMCA of Finland regarding accommodation they were arranging we aimed for the tourist information office in the centre of Helsinki, a short walk away. Having got directions we then made our way to the Arthur Hotel, owned by the YMCA of Helsinki in the slim hope that a reservation had been made for us there and that I did not get the message. After Krakow, who knows what plans may have been made? As expected we came up empty. The hotel was fully booked to boot. However, the original plan had been to camp and the clerk at reception called the campground we were heading to. Good news, they had just opened a hostel that very day and had plenty of beds available. The thought of a solid roof, not canvas, over my head sounded good. Off we went, via a Chinese restaurant, Lene by metro, me on two wheels.

I will highly recommend Rastila campsite and hostel. The rooms were very clean, affordable and of a standard I am not used to in a hostel – we even had a kitchen in our room. Sauna was also available, though all I wanted was dry clothes, a shower and food (surprise).

June 17: Tallinn

2007-07-01T10:37:00.000-07:00

The rain was back. We woke up to high winds and low, grey skies and cooked ourselves an ‘English’ breakfast of left over Estonian sausage, egg, baked beans and fried sausage. This was indeed high living on the campground. The rain duly started and we moved everything to the centre of the tent, in an effort to keep it dry, and headed for the sauna located in the tennis club next door. To round out an almost perfect morning, save for the weather, an hour or so was spent perusing the inventory of the bicycle store in the same complex. I considered it a moral victory that no money left my wallet.

Once we could no longer find excuses to prevent us from venturing out into the weather we journeyed to town again. As usual for the touring cyclist, hunger consumed me once more. I also needed a map of Finland to replace the one my dad had loaned me and that I had to cut in order to make it fit in my handlebar map pocket (sorry Dad). We combined these two needs at the bookstore café, having dismissed the idea of crepes downstairs. Then it was on to the internet café located in the basement bus station for the regular blog update.

Having spent a few hours there it was time to peek outside and see what Mother Nature was doing. No surprises in store – it was still grey and miserable with precipitation being driven by high winds. We walked the short distance to Old Town and attempted to explore again. However, the weather was hardly encouraging and soon dampened our desire to walk, or even be outdoors. It was time for a decision: go back to the tent, find a coffee shop, or begin a long, slow dinner with a drink? Answer C please. And so we made our way to Old Hansa, a medieval themed restaurant where dinner was begun with a stein-full of Dark Honey Beer. The atmosphere, food and décor of the restaurant was as good as the beer (or was it the other way around) and the live ‘period’ music was a nice touch and completed the ambiance.

We braced ourselves for what we find inside the tent. The outside was soaked and it was a question of how closely the inside matched it. Sure enough the floor was wet, along with the edges of the sleeping bag, but it was still much better than the first night I had spent here.

June 21: Celebrating trip´s end in Jyvaskyla

2007-06-21T06:48:00.000-07:00

It´s over. No more pedalling, no more hills, no more cokes or snickers. Despite misfortune´s best efforts in attempting to delay my departure from a cold and rainy Tallin - I had a flat tire en route to the ferry - I arrived in Finland on Monday afternoon.

The weather was just as cold and miserable in Helsinki. There was no accommodation left at the Helsinki YMCA´s hotel, so following an attitude adjustment conisting of Chinese food and hot tea we set off in search of the Rastila Hostel on the east side of the city. I do not think I have ever slept in a hotel/motel/hostel on its first day of opening before - but that is exactly what we did in the school turned Hostelling International site.

The next day it was off to Sysma and I found out the hard way that Finland is not as flat as I thought. Combined with the all-day headwind it was one of the harder days I have had on the trip and I had not geared down this low since coming through the High Tatras into Poland. After a long day in the saddle the night was spent at the Sysma campground - next to the lake. We ate pizza in bright sunshine at 10 pm.

The final day to Jyvaskyla was a relatively short one of 116 km. I was on the road early and enjoying the lack of wind. I zipped through the first half of the day, despite the continuing undulations of the countryside. My fastest speed of the trip was set (in Finland of all places) of 70 km/h. I was flagging by lunchtime and very pleased to see Lene with food around noon.

After an injection of caffeine and sugar in the form of Coke (what else?) I pushed on for the final 35 km into Jyvaskyla. The sun was out and I told myself to enjoy the final 90 minutes of cycling on back roads. At 2:30 pm local time I had arrived. By 2:45 it was pouring with rain and I was grateful to be inside and warm/dry. I had finished and though happy, all I wanted to do was sleep. No big celebration, just rest.

Today is Midsummer´s Day (Johannus in Finnish) and I will be celebrating: Food, drink, Sauna and watching the midnight sun.

Full updates for each day since Tallinn (and photos I hope) will be posted over the weekend I hope. However, as this is Johannus, most stores/cafes are closed from tonight on.

A big thank you to all who have made this ride possible and offered support throughout the last 4 weeks. I will write more soon, but now I hear the sauna calling my name!

June 16 - Tallinn

2007-06-17T07:10:00.000-07:00

Woke up to bright blue sky and sunshine and little wind. Lene was sleeping so I made myself some coffee and went for a walk around the Olympic harbour.

Having cooked breakfast and taken my bicycle to the nearby store for a 'drivetrain clean' we ventured into the Old Town, taking advantage of the cheaper 'book' of bus tickets that the Swedish biker had told us about rather than paying the driver. With the good weather there were crowds of people in the city. We had deliberately not taken a map - instead opting to wander and discover the city be chance.

As usual I was hungry and having toured various cafes restaurants we settled on a traditional Estonian establishment, opting for the Estonian Sausage Feast. It was indeed a feast and most of it was bagged up and taken with us - the idea being to have a cooked breakfast of sausage, egg and beans on the morrow.

We continued to explore and gradually discovered all that Tallinn has to offer - craft shops, narrow cobbled streets, churches and other historic buildings, posing for photographs and making important decisions such as where to eat dinner tomorrow. For me, Tallin had much more to offer than Riga, though in fairness to the Latvian capital I did not make much of an effort to explore it.

Following a bus ride back to the marina it was time for grocery shopping to ensure our breakfast feast went off as planned. We returned to the tent where the wind had died down and were under a crystal clear sky. I slept well.

June 15: Tallinn

2007-06-17T06:35:00.000-07:00

Woke up tired and wet. Had not slept much due to the noise from the storm - the coverings on the masts stored near me had rattled thoughout the night, the tent had shook, and one guidrope/tent peg had been blown out of the ground the ferocity of the wind had been such.

The precipitation had now stopped though the gail force winds prevailed. I took the opportunity dry what I could: the sleeping bag was strapped around the masts and thrashed around in the wind like a kite; my sleeping pad was tied around a tree facing the wind; the tent was staked out on its side faceing the wind - like a sail. I went to the bathroom and took refuge there, sending text messages and generally trying to get warm. I walked to the nearby grocery store to get breakfast supplies - it was 8:10, they did not open until 9!

When I got back to camp the Finnish couple were lying in wait and summoned me. They had prepared hot tea and a salami/cucumber roll for me! This was just what I needed. I was running on empty and the banana/apple I had eaten had been burned off long ago. No sooner had I finished than they packed up and left for the ferry port.

The wind was so strong my gear was now dry and I repitched the tent and stored the relevant sleeping equipment. I found the tennis club adjacent to the yacht club/marina and paid the 40 EEK for a shower. To wash in hot water and shave was truly a luxury. Decided not to sit in the sauna today but knew I would be back to enjoy this pleasure before leaving for Helsinki.

Two chocolate pastries, a baguette and fruit juice were purchased from the now-open store and I boarded a bus to town. Following some confusion as to where I was supposed to go, I made my connection to bus number 2 and was en route to the airport to meet Lene. The gray, windy weather had become sunny, windy weather but I felt desperately tired as I arrived at the airport.

Lene and I spent the rest of the day relaxing, eating pizza and grocery shopping. We chatted with the biker from Sweden as the sun set behind the masts - he had lived in Tallinn for 5 years and provided us with valuable 'local' information. When I could no longer keep my eyes open I went to bed.

June 14: Kabli to Tallinn - 214 km

2007-06-17T06:11:00.000-07:00

Peter, Andrea and I looked at the flag blowing strongly in the wind and Peter said 'you might fly to Tallinn today.' At our current location the wind was blowing strongly in the direction of Estonia's capital city and if it did not change direction I would have a tailwind the whole way.

The Luck express was en route to Tallinn: having got slightly delayed due to a search for my sunglasses I screamed through the first 50 km at close to 29 km/h. This was awesome. Ever since I decided last night to 'go for it' and make Tallinn in one day, I knew a fast start was important and I certianly had done that. My speed continued most of the way to Rabla, past bonfires built to celebrate Midsummer's Day on June 21 and windswept landscapes. I loaded up on dinner supplies and was accosted by the local drunk in Rabla.

Though there were sections against the wind that made me work very hard, the tailwind accompanied me most of the way. Until the final 20 km that is. Then it turned and blew into me, bringing the rain with it. I found shelter and dressed against the elements. I rolled into Tallinn about 7pm.

Finding a campground proved harder than getting here. I found Kalevi camping which looked derelict and non-operational, even though the gate was open. I found the 'biker's bar' inside the grounds and a shaven-headed, goatee-bearded biker told me the campground was closed. He directed me to another campground, which I could not find. Instead a German couple told me I could camp at the marina. I pulled up, asked how much it would be and was expecting the worst. 'Three euros' was the answer! Deal.

No sooner had I pitched the tent and cooked dinner the storm clouds rolled in. The Finnish couple in the camper van near me beckoned me over and offered my some red wine. We communicated as best we could for about 10 minutes until the sky was black, the wind howling and rain was driving into us horizontally. They climbed into thier van, I zipped myslef up in the tent. I stayed dry for about an hour. I have never experienced a wind/rain combination so fierce from within a tent before. Rain was driven under the tent, between the fabric and ground sheet. The floor of the tent was soaked before I went to bed. I woke up with a wet back, wet head and wet legs. EVERYTHING in the tent was soaked by morning. The one consolation was that I was warm.

June 13: Riga to Kabli, Estonia - 130 km

2007-06-17T05:53:00.000-07:00

I had wondered why the computer in the Y office and in Gunta's house was an hour fast. However, I was too tired to question this as much as I should have. Through various hand signals Gunta's mother had told me she would be leaving this morning at 6:30 am and then returning at 8:30 am. I, in turn, told her I hoped to leave at 9:30 am.

I awoke at 7:30 and went to the kitchen - Gunta's mother was there. Strange I thought - she was not supposed to be back for another hour. And then what should have dawned on me two days ago struck me like a hammer blow: I had changed time zones! (I did not expect this until Helsinki) I checked the clock radio - 8:40. I would not be on the road for 8:30. Oh well, I knew the road was flat and hoped the wind would favour (or at least not oppose) me and knew I had a relatively short 130 km day.

Somewhat unusually for a capital city I instantly found the correct road and was soon rolling up the A1 toward Estonia. The wind was kind and was cutting across me from behind giving me slight push. This was the first day of riding I'd had a tailwind. Thank you Mother Nature. I was running straight up the coast and it was not long before I saw the Baltic Sea for the first time. I stopped at a beach for a break and a photo.

I was making great time due to the good road surface and the tailwind and figure I would only be in the saddle around 5 hours today. Awesome. The road was not too busy though busy enough to prevent much looking around. I turned off onto a quiet road near Ainzi that led to a small border post with Estonia. Upon entering Estonia there were several small villages with brightly coloured buildings and I passed a couple of fellow adventure-cyclists.

Having averaged 26 km/h for the day I made camp early, before 6 pm, at a beachfront site and could hear the waves crashing about 60 metres away. The other cyclists pulled up and made camp. Following dinner we talked about the stunning array of alcoholic beverages available at petrol garages compared to the very limited non-alcoholic selection. And that the only refrigerated drink coolers that worked were the ones with beer in - a warm coke was something I was getting used to. Andrea told the story of buying a bottle of tonic water, only to notice once the liquid touched her lips that it was already mixed with vodka! Seeing 1-2 drunks a day was common.

We watched the sun disappear beyond the horizon at gone 10 pm and then tried to sleep under the 'white' sky.

June 12: Riga

2007-06-17T05:36:00.000-07:00

Lazy day today. Had a long, relaxed breakfast and the apartment to myself as Gunta had travelled to Tallinn and her mother had left early to work at the church. I wrote in my journal before updating the blog again. Felt like I should visit the Old Town and explore the UNESCO World Heritage city, but I felt devoid of energy and preferred to sit and write rather than walk (very unusual for me).

Finally the need for food was overwhelming and I decided to eat in the Old Town as an excuse to get there and at least see some of what the city had to offer. It was a hot day and what little strenght I had seemed to be draining from me. I rejected the 'Dickens Pub' as a lunch option and after and extensive search settled for the less than traditional pizza option. Still it was cheap, good, filling and above all, was what I felt like.

The small part of the Old Town that I did see was beautiful, though I did not spend long there. I had other needs that needed to be taken care of while in a major metropolitan area (as opposed to out in farmland) - namely I had one shopping purchase to make and needed a haircut. With both these tasks accomplished it was once again back to the apartment and some rest time.

I could not figure out how to use the washing machine - all the dials seemed to be in the right places but it would not start. I called in resources in the shape of Linda, who was working in the Y office next door and seemed a sort of permanent 'drop-in' tenant at Gunta's to help. No use, the washing maching directions were not in Latvian or English - personally, I think it was Finnish as there were a lot of 'Us' next to each other. So, I waited for Gunta's mother to come home.

When she arrived she had strawberries, cakes and cookies from the church. She insisted I eat. Though I had eaten only a short while before I could not communicate this and also did not want to offend (that is my story..) So, I tucked in. Gunta's mother spoke no English and me no Latvian or Russian. It was frustrating not being able to communicate even the simplest things such as to thank her for her hospitality. I hope she understood I was grateful.

Finally the washing machine ended, clothes were hung to dry and it was time for bed.

June 11: Jelgava to Riga - 45 km

2007-06-17T05:22:00.000-07:00

Woke up very tired and was simultaneously hungry with no appetite. If the breakfast bar waitress had asked me what I wanted I would have replied 'sleep'. Fish for breakfast was not really what I wanted and so I forced myself to consume bread and jam with strong coffee. My appetite was obviously returning as I cleaned them out of bread!

It was still raining when I claimed my bicycle from 'left luggage' and began the short ride to Riga. It was an easy trip on the busy A8 road and though there was serious congestion once I crossed the river I found the Old Town without any problem. Now the fun started - how to find Gunta and the YMCA? I could not remember the acronym for the YMCA in Latvia, could not locate the email from Gunta on my email, the YMCA Europe site does not have the updated phone number, and so on. Eventually the lady at the Information Center tracked down a cell number for the YMCA and I was soon speaking with Gunta.

I arrived at her/her mother's apartment/YMCA Latvia office a little while later having ridden the cobblestone streets. Gunta made lunch and then told me not to mind her 'normal' dog - Rex, the bulldog - who can become 'homosexual' around men! Great. In the absence of canine amorous advances I took the opportunity to update my blog and catch up on emails in the YMCA office. I proofed an annotation for a research paper on the theory/practice of non-formal education within the youth sector (focussing on the YMCA) and spent the remainder of the day eating and then sleeping.

June 10: Juburkas to Jelgava, Latvia - 202 km

2007-06-12T02:42:00.000-07:00

I thought a bird was trying to peck a whole in my tent and was about to wack it when I realised it was the father of one of the birthday boys with my breakfast - leftover pork, rice/ketchup and salad. At 7:30 the sun was already hot and while this was not my ideal 'breakfast of champions' I got as much food down me as I could manage.

I did know what to expect on the road today, but feared the worst - for the entire day and tomorrow I would be bombing up the A12/A8 toward Riga. This is THE main road from where I was into Riga and was likely to be heavily trafficked with juggernauts thundering by within inches of me. The attendant at the gas station in Skaudville insisted on placing a 'Ļithuania' sticker on the trailer - no problem. I had been pleasantly surprised at the lack of traffic so far and pulled in to a pizza restaurant in Kelme for lunch. Despite its exterior advertising, no pizza was available! Still, a good lunch was had and I was on the road again with my head down for Siauliai.

The landscape had not changed in two days, the only thing new was that now I was looking at Lithuanian farmland and not Polish. I passed my four-thousand-seven-hundred-and-sixty-second cow and began to daydream: what if Lance Armstrong came by (there used to be a Lithuanian rider on the Discovery team) and joined me for a section. Then in an act of great generosity he would contribute to the cause monetarily and also hook me up with a full-carbon Trek Madone ride. Schweet! Back to reality and thoughts turned to the rest of the day's ride.

I had thought it was 130 km from Joniskis to Riga and had considered going on into Latvia tonight to shorten the distance tomorrow. However, the sign said it was only 90 km between the two cities if I stayed on main road. I was sold and decided to bed down for the night in Joniskis.

I stopped at the famous Hill of Crosses (where Christians defied the communist regime and demonstrated their faith be sneaking to this point and planting crosses of all shapes and sizes.) There are thousands if not millions of them. It is simultaneously unsual, amazing and incongruous.

The road to Joniskis can be described in one word: straight. If you lay a pencil on the map between Siauliai and Joniskis the road disappears and I could see the church at the end of the treel lined road from 20 km away. Joniskis may have been a busy, thriving city at one time. However, at 6 pm on a Sunday it looked lifeless - forlorn factories, overgrown lawns everywhere, hardly a soul on the street, no shops open, no gas station. And certainly no cheap motel or camp option. I rode on. There was nothing between here and border and I was in Latvia 45 minutes later. There was nothing in Latvia either except one gas station where I got water and chocolate - again.

The lady at the gas station suggested I try the next city, Jelgava for accommodation/camping. How far away is that?, I asked. Twenty-six kilometeres. I was now riding mapless - I had cut my maps before leaving Albania in order to save weight and room. However, as I had now deviated from my planned route I was 'off the map'. I ploughed on to Jelgava covering the distance in about an hour and arriving at 9 pm.

It was time for a hotel. I got directions to the hotel Zemgale but could not find it, instead pulling up at the Hotel Jelgava. For 25 euros it was a done deal and I showered and then thought about dinner. Though the city looked attractive I really did not want to go back out. I opened the window, set up the camp stove and for the first time cooked pasta in my hotel room - lovely!

Discovered I had no phone coverage in Latvia, which was a downer as I could not communicate with my hosts for tomorrow night - YMCA Latvia. Tried to call from hotel but obviously had wrong number. Was too tired to worry about it tonight. The good news though, was that while my butt was definitely the worse for wear, I was now only 45 km from Riga. Tomorrow would be nothing more than a warm-up.

June 9: Suwalki to Juburkas, Lithuania - 163 km

2007-06-12T02:12:00.000-07:00

Woke up tired. For the first time I really did not want to get on the bike. Following breakfast of eggs, bread and water I was on the road at 10:30. First stop was gas station across the road for water/chocolate supplies and an additional sandwich to supplement breakfast. I was expecting not a fun days riding - at least early on - as I would be heading up the N8 into Lithuania and expected, heavy traffic and no shoulder.

Crossed into Lithuania with little fanfare - not even a welcome sign. I had decided not to take the smaller road from Kalvarija due to gravel issues the previoius two days. However, when I passed it and saw its blacktop running parallel it convinced me to turn back and explore the quiet country roads I had originally planned. Exploration lasted less than 3 km before the surface turned to gravel. I re-plotted route and vowed to ride only on ''ņumbered' roads from now on.

In Griskabudis I stopped at a gas station to escape the sun. I needed no supplies, but did need shade for a few mins. Dalius and his friends were hanging out there. We got talking (he had lived in England for two years). I had planned to stop for only 15 mins, but when they asked if I would like to try Lithuanian vodka, how could I refuse? Red vodka and orange juice were purchased and after the obligatory photo call I was handed a glass of each. I downed the vodka and chased it with the juice - tasted like cough medicine. Not unpleasant, but did not produce the burning sensation from the depths of the gut to the throat that I usually associate with vodka. I politely declined a second round and following more banter rode on.

In Sakiai I loaded up on dinner supplies for the night and purchased a very late lunch. Then it was back in the saddle and on to Juburkas where I planned to find a site to camp. No real options presented themselves so I rode on. Checked on one possibility and, despite insect spray, was instantly attacked by mosquitoes. Not a good site. Rode on. Was beginning to get slightly concerned about the lack of woods, camp options when I spotted a house with tents in the garden, teens in the adjoining field and adults sitting around a picnic table. I wheeled over and asked if they knew where I could camp. "How many nights?" they asked. Just one, I replied and after a short conference they agreed I could camp in their garden.

I had just crashed a double 15-year old birthday party. There were about 15-20 teens present, music cranking in the background, bonfire going and the adults enjoying thier own conversation around the table. Having made camp I was invited to the table for food and drink. While my food of BBQ pork, cold rice covered in tomato ketchup, salad and bread was being dished up I had a decision to make: vodka or beer? I choose vodka again reasoning it was the smaller alcohol volume. I did not bargain on 5 toasts! - to Lithuania, to Albania, to Friendship, to other things that I have no idea what they were other than an excuse to drink and get hammered (a point which a few had already reached).

There was plenty of conversation and I felt truly welcomed and blessed to have found such company for the night. I did not sleep much, maybe 4 hours, as the teens partied hardy long into the night, screaming, cranking the music up, letting each others tents down - reminded me of the Greenbelt Festival in the UK in some ways (but about one ten-thousandth the size).

June 8: Lomza to Suwalki - 174 km

2007-06-11T12:28:00.000-07:00

Worse start than yesterday - puncture after only 6 km! Yes, you know it, same problem with rear tire causing the issue. I needed food badly, 1 Snickers does not count as breakfast, and I know my blood sugar was low by the time I reached the first gas station of the day. My breakfast choices were limited: chocolate bars or nothing. I loaded up on Snickers and Mars bars. (I may never eat a Snickers or drink a Coke again after this trip - well, not for 48 hours anyway).

Decided that I may not make it to Riga on this tire and sent a SMS to Adam, my Polish boss, who was driving over to meet me in Suwalki for dinner, asking him to bring me a new tire. I knew he knew something about bikes as he had built at least one wheelset for his son - not an easy task. Duly the responses came: is it slick? 'yes'. OK, consider it done. Witih that weight off my mind I began the journey through Biebrzanski National Park.

To say the road was desolate is an understatement - it took 10 km for the first car to pass me. Before this trip, if you had asked me what the weather was like in Poland, I would probably have given the answer most people give about England: gray and rainy. For the last three days the sky had been a bright blue and I had been baked under the hot sun. Today was no different. I was roasting and grateful for the lunch stop in Gondiaz at the one restuarant the town had to offer.

From this point on the day went downhill. Once I found it, I took a left turn for Jasionow - I had already cycled 5 km past it before realising I was on the wrong road. The road was great for about 1 km when I crossed the river and local swimming spot where families were bathing. Immediately after the bridge the road turned to gravel. I asked how long it went on for - given the complete lack of common language between the two of us I am not sure my question was understood or if I understood the intended answer. However, my perception of what was communicated was that the gravel lasted for 35 km!!! I tried to ride it for few km to see - I was really not sure of the answer. It quickly became a sandy base I did well not to fall off as the front wheel slid away from me. I got off and could barely push the bike. I would have to turn back and re-route. This meant going 3 sides round a rectangle and adding about 25km or an hour and quarter to my ride time. Various four-letter words went through my mind. I was hot, tired, and hungry again alreday and the psychological part of the ride was now proving a big challenge.

I made hard work of getting to Augustow where I realised my tire had about 15 psi of pressure in it. I pumped it up and let Adam know I would not be in Suwalki for 7:30. Closer to 8:00 if I dropped the hammer. The hammer was dropped for 5 km - At this point my rear tire needed more air. I changed the inner tube. As I had finished but before inflating tire, Adam passed me and pulled over. The new tire was put on the bike. For time's sake, Adam took the trailer - I had 26 km to go - and I rode 'light'. Wow! I flew into Suwalki in less than an hour.

With Adam arriving in town first he had secured me a room for the night. At any other time I would not have given this bar/restuarant/hotel a second look. He assured me it looked better on the inside. For 20 euros it was what you would expect: water stained carpet, peeling paint, ongoing construction. I wondered if the place was a front for a brothel - the first 3 people I saw all looked like they could have been contestants in a hookers' beauty pageant - tight, short skirts/dresses, making sure the relevant bits were sucked in/sticking out in front of the mirror in the bar/reception area. Still, the room had a bed and a shower - all I needed. The shower was cold - apparently I was the only guest (what were the girls doing downstairs I wondered) and the water heater was only turned on after my arrival.

Adam toured me around the region - naturally beautiful with lakes and fields. We visited an old Monastery and Hermitage where the homes of the hermits had now been rennovated and were available to holidaymakers for the right price. It was an idyllic setting and understandable why first royalty and then Pope John Paul II used to vacation here. We entered the restaurant at 9:10 to be informed that food service ended at 9:00! They did at least let me buy water.

Following a good meal in a downtown Suwalki restuarant I retired for the evening. It was late and I decided to leave later than usual in the morning and lie-in. I was woken at about 3 am by the sound of doors slamming - at least 10. If Iwas the only guest, who was slamming doors? Maybe it was the girls changing shifts or possibly Madam checking the rooms with vibrating beds. I went back to sleep.

June 7: Tabor to Lomza - 165 km

2007-06-11T12:04:00.000-07:00

I expected today to be a fast day - I would spend the majority of it on 'big'roads. Generally this equeates to a better road surface. After a breakfast of bread and honey I was off. My fast start lasted 16 km, then the rear tire issue caught up with me. I had survived two days on my 'fix'and figured if it lasted that long each time I could make Riga and replace tire there.

More woods and rolling hills. Instead of Mississippi Pine Forest, there were times I could have been in England - despite the fact that today the cars were on the 'ŗight' side of the road! - there was rich, dark green colour to the gently rolling landscape.

Two incidents stand out. The first was shortly after I passed a cyclist pulling out of a bus lay-by. He had a decent looking hybrid bike and had been adjusting his cargo: one grocery bag on each handlebar. I flew by him. He raced past me as soon as the road started to climb. Then he looked back as if to see how much distance he had on me. A second glance back. I needed no other incentive, the gauntlet had been thrown and it was 'game on'. He had about 100m on me and was moving at a pretty good clip. I still had 60 km to go and did not want to push too hard. The road was undulating enough to make it hard for me to catch him, but slowly I ate into his lead. Then came my reward: I saw a slight descent ahead - my wieght advantage would take me screaming past him and he'd be history (at least until the road climbed again). As if sensing 'the catch' he turned off down a dirt road and I did not get to taste victory. Still it made the last 8 km much more interesting than they otherwise would have been.

The second incident was more distressing. An ambulance was pulled over on the opposite side of the road and a police car was approaching with lights and siren in full swing and pulled up behind ambulance. As I drew level I looked over. The ambulance crew were standing around, no rush or concern, wating for the police officer. Lying on the grass was a bicycle, no sign of rider. The fact that the medics were standing around did not bode well for the cyclist and the words of John Murray, YMCA Buffalo-Niagara drifted through my mind - 'Do you think you can do this ride without getting hit by a car?' I'd had a few close calls and this site did not inspire confidence. About an hour later the cop passed me with the bike hanging out of the back of his car.

Today was the Corpus Christi holiday and I saw one procession, children dressed in thier Sunday best and girls dressed in white like angels. This was the start of a long weekend in Poland and despite all the stores being closed in Ostrow Maz. I did find a supermarket in Lomza and stocked up for the night. Bug spray was also bought to fend off the mosquitoes and black flies which had certainly detracted from the camping experience thus far.

I had already made camp and was about to get the stove going when from nowhere an old man a bike approached my tent. From his gestures I gathered he owned this part of the forest. I explained I was going to Finland and needed to sleep. 'OK' he said but motioned at the empty bottles and other trash that was littering the ground. I showed him my trash bags. He nodded and with his fears allayed gave a final 'OK' before riding off.

June 6: Radoszyce to Tabor - 167 km

2007-06-11T11:47:00.000-07:00

I needed water badly as I had started the day with less than half a bottle. Food was also a priority as a couple of biscuits did not make the ideal breakfast. Found a bakery in Konskie and wondered if there was a threat of nuclear war the line of customers was so long. Having patiently waited I ordered: 1 small pizza, 2 cinnamon rolls, 2 small ciabata breads and orange juice. Ate everything except the ciabata - would use these to 'clean' my saucepan after my evening meal and save water.

Off I headed toward Warsaw. The road was dotted with several stork nests, mostly on specially constructed 'platforms' added to telephone poles or lamposts. Despite the lengthy delay at the bakery I was making pretty good time. That soon changed. Following lunch I got on the correct road leading from Bialobrzegi toward Biejkow. To my horror, given status of rear tire, the road turned to fine gravel about 5 km further on. I asked two lads on a motor bike if I was on the right road. They confirimed I was. I road on, finally giving up and turing around when road petered out in a field! I rode back and asked again. I was directed to the 4-lane highway I was trying to avoid and basically travelled 3 sides around a square.

I made the decision not to go into Warsaw - the YMCA had not confirmed housing and the hassle of getting in and out of a big city, when you do not have time to see any of the sights, was not worth it. I stocked up and supplies - including 2 big bottles of water - and set my sights on crossing the river going toward Minsk Maz. before bedding down for the night. Found a great spot and wheeled my bike about 300m off the road, past the naked couple in thier car and onto a small, concealed, grassy area.

I was frustrated when I turned on my phone and discovered that YMCA Poland had indeed arranged accommodation in both Krakow and Warsaw - despite modern technology messages between the two of us had not reached their destination. Even more frustrating was that the YMCA in Krakow had collected/raised some money in support of the ride and I had not been there to thank them. Thank you YMCA Krakow.

June 5: Krakow to Radoszyce - 158 km

2007-06-11T11:22:00.000-07:00

Later start than usual as I saw Lene off and was on the road at 10:30. Took me an hour to cover the 11 km needed to exit Krakow. Overcast skies threatened rain and I figured it would be more of the same: a cold, wet end to the day. However, the temperature was perfect and I was enjoying the rolling farmland.

First puncture (real puncture rather than valve failure) of the trip occurred after 30 km. It was worse than a puncture - my tire was sliced and I could see all the way through it when I put my finger inside. I replaced inner tube and inserted a 10 Zloty note inside between the tube and tire in the hope that the Zloty was as strong as a Dollar in terms of tire repair. The 'slice' was on the center line of the tire and the chance of gravel or a 'pinch flat causing another puncture was highly likely.' I rode on with bated breath.

Quiet back roads passed through villages simultaneously straddling different eras: fields being cut by scythe; milk carried in metal cans; and satellite dishes on every other house. The only negative to this bucolic setting was the awful road surface. Farmland changed to pine forest and if the road markings had been different I could have been in the Mississippi Pine Belt.

Despite the late start I wanted to get in at least 150 km and pushed on aggressively stopping only for snickers (or substitute calories) and liquid. Another kebab sufficed as lunch - washed down with grapefruit Powerade! I made my final water purchase late in the day in a small village. Though I bought 1.5 litres of my brain told me to buy two. I did not listen.

I found a small copse of trees to spend the night late in the day and set up camp. The pasta I had bought earlier at the supermarked in one of the many small towns I passed through tasted like food of the gods. I then realised I did not have enough water to drink this evening and start with a full bottle in the morning. Next time will listen to my inner voice.

June 3-4: Krakow and Surrounding Areas

2007-06-11T09:15:00.000-07:00

On Sunday we explored the Old Town and was surprised how busy it was. The place was jam packed - tourists, vendors (arts/crafts and food), kids activities, street performers, etc. It did not take us long to realize that we were in the middle of the 750th Annniversay celebrations of the founding of Krakow. Visited possibly the worst information booth ever - no phone or phone book - in an effort to find a bicycle shop and purchase the necessary inner tubes and a new pump. Souvenir store next door was more helpful, ripping out the relevant pages of the Yellow Pages and we were able to locate the nearst two shops.

Savoured 'red borscht' and tuna-stuffed dumplings at a 'locals' bistro. Climbed the tower in the main square, which was not entirely what the knees needed, but did offer a good view of the city. Visited the castle on Wawel Hill briefly and located one of the bike shops. It was closed, but we would return in the morning ahead of our day excursion. All I wanted to do was sleep. Following a 2-hour nap the day was rounded off with a massive kebab 'Polish style'. Krakow is a wonderful, historic city and I was sorry not to have more time or energy to explore it further. Will definitely plan to return.

The following day we were at the bike store shortly after opening and the requisite supplies purchased. Our timing was perfect as we reached the bus station as our transport to Oswiecim was leaving in two minutes. The name Oswiecim probably means nothing to anyone except the Poles reading this. However, its German moniker has consigned it to the darkest chapters of history - we were going to Auschwitz. Now a 'city of peace' Oswiecim houses the Auschwitz Museum in honour of the 1.5 million, mainly Jews, who were murdered.

Two things struck me: how small Auschwitz camp was and how sterile/'soft' the museum was. I had expected to leave traumatised and although the hard facts are presented and leave you wondering about the psychosis of a regime that exterminates 56,000 Hungarians in 7 days, gassed 2,000 at a time, it seemed too clean. Personally I would have tried to bring the history to life by having visitors enter a railway carriage and being 'locked in' for 3 minuted followed by a mock 'selection' (who lives/who 'showers') process in an effort to convey what went really went on. The elements that do bring the horror to life are the mounds of human hair and the piles of suitcases, shoes and spectacles that remain. Birkenau, less well known in name, but where most of the murders took place is massive and certainly more horrific - even if based solely on the scale of the place.

Two quotes remained with me: 'Arbeit macht frei' - the inscription over the entrance gates to Auschwitz which perversely translates to 'work brings freedom' (for most, freedom only came through death), and 'those who do not remember history are bound to live through it again' - George Santayana. This had me reflecting on my conversations in Sarajevo.

June 2: Poprad to Krakow, Poland - 166 km

2007-06-03T12:41:00.000-07:00

Was first in breakfast room at 6:30 and pulling away from hotel at 8 am after more repairs to trailer. Mother Nature had departed from here usual schedule and had started the day with rain and fog. Undeterred I set off to cross the High Tatras and enter Poland.

I have been told by all who have visited the region that the scenery is spectauclar - 2500m peaks towering over Apline-esque villages. I did all the work but gone none of the visual rewards. The mountains must still have been there - they could not have been moved overnight. However, I saw nothing except the stretch of road in front of me - the entire area was enveloped in rain clouds and fog. The villages looked cold, wet and miserable - a mirror image of how I felt. Still, at least the uphills were generating body heat and I was not yet suffereing too badly.

The rain worsened as I reached the Polish border. For some reason I thought things would get easier gradient-wise upon reaching Poland. Oh no - more towering climbs for several kilometeres. Not 12% but L-O-N-G. Finally I seemed to reach my high altitude of the day and the road into Nowy Targ was fast. I had reached my goal of 80 km by lunch.

It was still raining as I left the pizzeria. Once again I had put wet clothes back on after changing into dry ones to eat. The pain in my knees this morning had taken about 25 km (1.5 hours) to dissipate and now they needed to be warmed up again. The road to Krakow was essentially downhill from here. With the weight of the trailer I was tearing up the tarmac and making great time and anticpated arriving in Krakow at about 6:30. To good to be true? You bet.

The all too familiar 'phsssssssst' sound bellowed and I prayed it was the trailer tire that had punctured and not my rear bike tire. Of course, it was the rear bike inner tube and the problem could not be fixed - the valvestem was the problem. Nothing to do but throw inner tube away. Problem - I had no spare! It had been used in Budapest and I planned to buy two more in Krakow. What to do? - I was stuck on an overpass of national road number 7.

The local fire department were setting up for their annual 'field day' tomorrow and there were about 30 youth and adults on the wet field (was still raining) as I walked over. I asked if anyone spoke English. One of the youths did. There was no bike store nearby, but a bus could take me to Krakow. While digesting this there was some more side talk. Then the offer that some of the youths would help me carry bike and trailer back to field house and store it while one of the men took me to try to fix the 'tube'. Deal. Four lads moved my gear. The 'fix' for my tube was that I took the tube from the man's bike after driving to his home! Then my pump stopped working - another person was dispatched to go and get a pump. We managed to get about 15 psi in the tire (it should have 70-80) but no more despite our team effort.

Two hours later I was back on the road and in a race a) to get to a petrol garage and get more air in the tire, and b) get to Krakow before darkness fell. I won both contests. Just. I arrived in Krakow at 8:30 and then took another 20 minutes to find the apartment that Lene and I had rented.

It had been a truly memorable day and a big thank you to the Pcim Fire Department for bailing me out and helping get me back on the road.

June 1: Lucenec to Poprad, Slovakia - 132 km

2007-06-03T12:15:00.000-07:00

Following breakfast with the Sinko family I was out the door at 7:40. It took me 45 mins to lube the bike and repair the bent cotter pin that secures the trailer to the bike on the right side. Took another 15 mins to locate an ATM. Armed with a day's worth of Slovak currency I set off for Kalinovo.

I enjoyed the rolling Slovakian countryside, the peacefulness and the sound of the birds. At one point I passed a sign indicating scheduled daily 'cattle crossings'. As luck would have it I had avoided the 'rush hour' period of bovine movment and my ride north was uninterrupted. The climbs were becoming steeper and longer.

In the village of Zlatno I took shade under tree next to a church for refreshment: snickers and a coke. I encountered an older gentleman who in other contexts I may have assumed was homeless. He told me the original church was destroyed in WWI and that this church had been designed by a famous Slovakian architect from Bratislava. It had opened in 1922 following 6 years of planning/construction and that there is a twin-church in Slovakia also. He added that times had been better when the country was Czechoslovakia before 'the division': Czech Republic now has all industry and Slovakia is poor neighbour with rural economy.

People in Hnusta suggested I not try and cycle through the High Tatras. I pushed on towards Tisovec and the climbs really started. First came the 7% signs, then the 12%. My gears were not shifting properly and my knees were screaming at having to climb in bigger gears than they wanted. 'Granny' gear (easiest possible to pedal) was found for the first time. The wisdom of my Hnusta advisors was becoming apparent. It was all I could do to maintain 5 km/h. This meant the German Shepherd guard dog closed the distance between us rapidly, teeth snapping, eyes on my right calf! I accelerated to the dizzying speed of 8 km/h and then sat before tendons snapped or my heart exploded. The dog backed off.

I was rewareded for my efforts with a 12% downhill and the road then dipped and rose into Poprad. I had given everything to get over the mountains (and not entered High Tatras yet) and my knees were shattered. I opted for a hotel instead of pushing another 12 km in failing light. I could barely keep my eyes open during dinner and after a much needed bath it was an early night.

May 31: Budapest - Lucenec, Slovakia - 173 km

2007-06-03T11:50:00.000-07:00

Up at 7 in order to be first in line when breakfast was served at campground restaurant at 8. However, efforts for an early start were thwarted when at 7:55, while inflating tires, the valve stem broke off on my front inner tube! Breakfast was eaten with hands smelling of rubber and chain-lubricant and I was pleased I remembered enough French to have a conversation with a couple from Provence over coffee and toast.

A bike courier escorted me along the relevant bike paths to the river Danube and I was soon heading north towards Szentendre where I caught the ferry across a narrow river to Szigetmonostor. I was now on quiet, Hungarian back-roads and leisurely cycled back towards the Danube, before crossing it on another ferry to the city of Vac.

Following a hand-drawn map from two teenage-girls I found my way to Rad and enjoyed a ride to the Slovakian border on more gently rolling, quiet backroads. On cue, about an hour before arrival at the border crossing, the heavens opened. The sky had threatend rain most of the day and within minutes I was drenched and cold. I ducked into the first petrol garage on the Slovakian side of the border to change and put calories in my pie-hole. I then changed back into wet clothes once the storm caught up with me again before I had finished my sandwich and coke in the warm confines of the store.

I had made a potentially grave error: Lucenec was 30 km further than I thoght and I discovered this at 5:15 with 53 km to go. It would be a race against the setting sun - again. Off I charged off in the pouring rain. I arrived at 8:35 pm, very cold, wet and hungry. I met Pavel with the YMCA in Lucenec and was then hosted by an Albanian family for dinner - which was an unexpected opportunity to practice my Albanian. The oldest daughter (of 6 children) asked what was I getting from the trip personally? Contributing to a good cause and seeing Europe at at a pace powered by me. This was strange to her.

The night was spent at Pavel's place.

May 30: Osijek to Budapest by train (25 km on bike)

2007-06-03T11:23:00.000-07:00

Woke up to rain and following breakfast (served in my room) I headed for an internet cafe. I stumbled across the old town and explored the wet, cobblestoned streets cautiously - I was no longer nervous about my spokes but the potentially slippery surface. May buildings/statues were being renovated and it appeared the city was involved in the recent conflict judging by the pockmarked buildings.

I arrived at the railway station at 12:30 for a 13:15 train. Happily my ATM cards worked today and I now had Croatian money with which to buy food! Trains arrived: some left; some waited as if for a pre-arranged rendezvous that was now delayed. I had been told my train would display the sign "Sarajevo-Budapest" and expected a train of more than 3 carriages (the 'local' train length). Following an announcement a 2-car train pulled in, well short of where I waited on the platform. I paid it little attention until realising at the last second it was my train: I dashed back to my bike and finally managed to get the conductor to understand that I needed him to hold my bike while I detached the trailer and loaded everything. He was in a hurry to go and I do not think my bike wheels were on the ground when the train pulled away.

My arrival in Budapest was greeted by a horde of 'Hostel touts' trying to sell me rooms. There were not interested in giving directions, but could not match the camping fee I challenged them too. Instead they told my it would take me at least an hour and half to get where I was going. I followed the sun West, and forty-two minutes later I was putting my tent up.

There was a very noticeable difference in temperature here (cooler). I enjoyed dinner conversation with couples from the Netherlands and Germany over pork schnitzel, garlic and fries. To bed ahead of a big day on the morrow.

May 29: Into Croatia, 96 km

2007-05-30T02:47:00.000-07:00

Got up later than planned due to sleepless night before and nervously ordered bread and jam for breakfast. Got what I ordered but also butter and cheese. Opened butter packet and this realeased and rancid smell and revealed green fur all over packet. The smell was nauseating and the plate was pushed as far away on table as space would allow. Happily, bread and jam went down and stayed down.

Crossed into Croatia around 10 am. The terrain was now flat. Good for the legs potentially as they could recover a little after all the climbing, but very boring. After 28 km, I heard the familiar 'crack' of a spoke break. I had broken one late in the evening the day before and had trued the wheel without replacing the spoke. Now I had two to fix. Pulled over at next petrol garage and began work. Quickly realised that I could only fix one - the second needed the cassette to be removed to thread the spoke. Fixed what I could and rode on. I had lost over an hour changing the spoke and was now facing a head wind and recalculating how I would keep to my schedule. The thought of taking the train entered my mind for the first time.

The roads were mindnumbingly flat and monotonous. NO challenge, no rest. Another storm swept over me as I neared Osijek - I had changed route on the advice of a bike mechanic who I had hoped could fix bike was unable as he did not have the cassette removal tool.

I entered Osijek cold, wet and very hungry. I had to eat. I had already decided I at least needed to check the train schedule and think about my options over 'lunch' - it was now alrady 3:30 pm. And then it happened - Pulling away from a traffic light. "Snap!", the bike lurched right as I fell forward. How I avoided the curb and stayed upright I do not know. I looked down, though I already knew what had happened: my new chain had snapped!! The Sarajevo mechanic must have put the pin in incorrectly. Mind made up - train to Budapest it would be.

Some local lads helped me get to a bike store where I had everythign possible done to the bike: relaced all spokes on the rear wheel, new bottom bracket, new chain obviously, new bottle cage, new gloves and even a pair of socks. The mechanics were great, ordering pizza and coke and working on my bike for about 3 hours.

They asked where I was staying and I said I hoped to find a cheap hotel. Once we established I would pay 20 euros for a room they called a friend with an apartment and hooked me up for said price, including breakfast. Top blokes!

Silvio, bike store owner cycled with me to train station and I purchased my ticket for the direct train to Budapest tomorrow. 6 hour to go about 250 km as the crow flies - not sure exactly where train is going (?). Then we cycled the 6 or so km to the apartment. We said our goodbyes and thank yous on my behalf and then it was time for a shower and sleep.

May 28: Sarajevo to somewhere in Bosnia, 189 km

2007-05-30T02:34:00.000-07:00

Was out the door at 7:10 and ready to roll. However, bank cards would not work at ATM and I was delayed waiting for bureau de change to open.

Lots of climbing early in the day and my stomach did not feel good. Most of the day I felt nauseous. Had my first cola at 9 am. Sky Cola was on offer. NOt the 'Real Thing' but it did proclaim 'original American taste'!

Once again got rained on - this time the storm was accompanied by pea size hail. Though I took shelter under trees the 'ting ting' sound of hail on my bike helmet was heard repeatedly.

Gradually I came out of the mountains and was making good time. However, I ended up the wrong road despite asking three people to confirm where I was! Originally frustrated I then realised that if I just kept on riding I would meet back up with my intended route tomorrow and effectively both options were two sides of a diamond.

Camping that night was not an option as I passed multiple signs proclaiming 'danger - mines' at the roadside. Instead opted for a hotel, figuring that 10 euros was a small price to pay in order to be assured of keeping both my legs. I raced the sunset north towards the Bosnian/Croatian border at Orasje. I won. Just. My room was above a restuarant and was sparse. But after 189 km what did I care? I just needed food and sleep.

Food was easy and I went down for dinner. Steak and fries. Sleep proved more difficult as my stomach refused to digest what I had eaten and my sleep was fegularly interrupted at 90 minute or so intervals with trips to the bathroom!

May 27 - Sarajevo

2007-05-30T02:25:00.000-07:00

Got up earlier than planned as need for food outweighed need for sleep. Spent the day exploring some of Sarejevos sights: old town, Latin bridge where WWI started with the assasination of Archduke Ferdinand and plenty of signs of the recent war - pockmarked buildings, etc.

Managed to get my bike repaired - I had been carrying spare parts since Albania that I could not get fitted there due to lack of tools. Was happy to finally have new rear cassette and chain on.

Had good conversation with man who helped me find bike shop, mainly about the recent conflict. He told me, with the sense of pride someone would show if they bought a new car, that he had blown up the butcher's shop with 100 kg TNT. He is Moslem and the shop was housing Chetnik snipers. From where we drank coffee he showed me his 'front line' position on the other side of the river Miljacka. His brother had been killed in the war. He was a journalist and had followed Richard HOlbrooke to Bajram Curri, Albania during the Kosovo conflict in 1997. Albania was a dangerous place he said, but that he had felt safe on teh front lines of Sarajevo! It was a fascinating conversation.

May 26: Piva to Sarajevo, Bosnia - 140 km

2007-05-27T09:22:00.000-07:00

The monastery dog had kept me awake half the night - barking and chasing heaven only knows what. I awoke at 6:15 to find him asleep under a tree!

I hung me wet clothes on the bike hoping that the early morning sun would dry them a little before setting off. I was feeling very hungry but had no food other than trail mix - I did NOT want a bowl of that for breakfast. I was told I could bread from the same restuarant that I'd received water from the day before. I had a quick look around the Monastery which was now unlocked - there was Mass at 8 am and a baptism at 8:30. Even though I know what to expect inside an Orthodox church I am always stunned at the beauty and radiance of the icons and other adornments inside. Piva was no exception.

I left for the cafe only to be told upon arrival that there was no bread. But I could order a sandwich. I asked for two. They were huge - thick slices of bread loaded with salted ham and cheese. The salt was too much adn I ate the second with cheese only. A new first for me: this was all washed down with a coke for breakfast! I was craving sugar.

Tackling the 7% climb was the first order of business and I started at 8:55. Later than planned but I was grateful for the relaxed breakfast I had enjoyed. I huffed and puffed as my legs tried to warm up. Then to my great, and pleasant, surprise after only 2 km the road began to dip and I screamed in Pluzine. From Pluzine to the border with Bosnia the route can be described in one word: spectacular! Plivsko Canyon forms a natural reservoir, torquise in colour. The road follows this closely through a series of 20-30 tunnels (I lost count) and is flat much of the time with the occasional climb to keep adventure cyclists honest.

I passed out of Serbia with no problem and had a friendly chat with the border guards about my trip. A very steep, but short descent followed to the Bosnian checkpoint. I took a photo of the 'Welcome to Bosnia' sign. Mistake. A border guard came over and yelled at me for taking photos and then refused to take my passport, instead ordering me to wait in the already hot sun. Maybe Bosnian state secrets are concealed within the sign or possible he thought I was a terrrorist sent to wreak havoc on two wheels. Finally I was cleared to enter Republika Srpska (one 'half' of Bosnia). The road sign warned to drive carefully due to road conditions fro the next 15 km and the surface, was there was once pavement, did not disappoint.

Coke two came at 11:30 and lunch was taken an couple of hours later at a roadside cafe: fried meat sandwich. And lots of water. Could not face another coke. I was halfway to Sarajevo with 65 km to go. A storm threatened and I decided to get back on the bike about 3 pm. The road continued to wind through canyons which protected me somewhat from the sun. The sky darkened and the wind picked up. At Dobro Polje I passed the first cafe and then a beer joint. I needed water but neither place appealed to me. I then saw the sign announcing the end of the village and turned back for the bar. Beer was all that was inside - cases of it. NO coke, no wine, no soft drinks, just beer. The owner did have a tap outside and I filled my water bottles.

Through the use of forearms to show gradient I asked about the grade over the next 35 km to Sarajevo (I was standing at the bottom of a hill). 5 km uphill he motioned, 'then fsshhht!' with his arm poined down. He increased the angle of his arm to show a steep descent, then levelled it off slightly and said 'Sarajevo'. To his discredit I thought 'No way is there a 30 km descnet to Sarajevo'. He was correct on all counts. At 5.1 km the road levelled and then I started falling with gravity at about 65 km/h again. The only negative was that 2 km into the climb it had started raining. Lightly at first. Then harder. Now it was pouring. I could barely see on the descent. Effectively I was being 'pushed' from behind by the trailer and I was aware that one mistake could end more than the bike trip. The road levelled off but had a downward bias and I raced over the remaining 35 km in a little over an hour. Life was good.

I entered Sarajevo at 6:15 and then took an hours and 10 km to find my hostel. Noone could tell me where it was. Finally, a sunglass/umbrella salesman came to my rescue and got hold of the hostel owner who then came to meet me in the old town. Sixty seconds later and the owner appeared (need to look his name up again). Posillipo Hostel is clean, RIGHT next to the old town, and comfortable. I love the feel of Sarajevo and have added my rest day back in - I will just have to ride 170 km/day for the following three days to reach Budapest on schedule.

I took care of my two most urgent needs: shower and food - though not necessarily in that order.

May 25: Shkoder - Piva Monastery, 174 km

2007-05-27T08:59:00.000-07:00

I have never measured a trip by my Coca-Cola consumption. There is a first time for everything.

Woke up feeling much better and was on the road by 7:15. Through the Serbian enclave in Vraka, Albania and past the new Serbian Orthodox church. School children looked on in amazement and waved as I passed through Koplik before reaching the Montenegrin border at 8:45. I was ahead of schedule.

First Coke was consumed in the 'no-man's land' between the Albanian and Montenegrin border posts at 9 o'clock. The climb into Montenegro was not as harsh as I feared and soon I reached Tuzi, stopping briefly at the Catholic Church memorializing Mother Teresa. The countryside was rollings hills set against a backdrop of mountains and I knew the road would get vertical soon. Vineyards on one side and fig orchards on the other.

I blew through Podgorica and continued on toward Niksic, stopping for a 2nd coke at 11 am. Lots of dates are commemorized in hotel, restaurant names and on busses in Montenegro: 19 Dec., 7 Jan., 5 Dec. Everything was fine until Danilovgrad and I was making good time. Things were looking up. Things literally looked up from this point on as the road climbed for the next 28 km (18 miles). It was hot, with hiding place from the sun and not once did the gradient diminish or flatten. With the extra weight of the trailer it is as near to being 'broken' on a climb as I have come. I was despearate for water and shade and found a restaurant at Ostrog: coke 3, water and a fruit salad followed.

I waved goodbye to the bus load of Hungarian tourists having done 'an interview' for their home movie special - somewhere in Budapest I am a household name!! Back on the road I entered a long tunnel. Unusally there were lights inside and I knew it would be a long, dark ride for the next several minutes. At soem poing I crested the hill in the dark and descended in to the town of Niksic.

Had lunch in the pictureque square and visited the sights. Got back on the bike at 4 pm telling myself to get to Pluzine before nightfall so that I 'only' had 130 km to Sarajevo the next day. Storm!! Out of nowhere I was suddenly in driving rain. The good news: the wind as at my back. The bad news: 4 km later I realised I was on wrong road! Having turned around the road climbed again. And it climbed. And climbed, summiting at 1200 metres.

I was running low on water again and found a roadside store. Time for a coke and dinner supplies. Pasta, ham and fruit. The road soon dipped and I descended at 65 km/h plus toward Piva. I fillled water bottles again and considered going the final 6 km to Pluzine. That was until I saw the sign announcing a 7% climb. I did not have the mental or physical strength to climb again and took the option of dowhill to the monastery.

Abbot Nikifor agreed to let me pitch my tent in the monastery grounds. The stone structure had been moved, stone by stone, from a nearby lake over a period of 12 years between 1970 - 1982. The stone numbers are still visible. I cooked my gourmet meal of plain pasta and ate it with my bananas and apple. The abbout provided bread. Not the greatest post-ride meal, but it was calories. Then I went to bed!

For those that have asked, here are the ride stats: 174 km, average speed of 19.5 km/hr, ride time of 8 hrs 52 mins, 9176 calories burned.

May 24 - The Phoney Ride

2007-05-24T07:21:00.000-07:00

Sinus infections and long-distance bike trips really do not go together. Having felt unwell for the past two days, as of going to bed last night I was prepared to cycle into Montenegro, then Serbia today. I went to bed early and did not watch all the Champion’s League Final (yes, that is how tired I felt) and assumed that Milan won as I was woken by the sound of celebratory gunfire – one gunman, eight bullets. No car horns honking, just gunfire.

However, at approximately 4 am this morning, upon waking with a throbbing head and aching jaws, I decided that a visit to the doctor was more prudent that a 160 km bicycle ride. Arlind and Fatmir, YMCA leaders and translator, negotiated a rapid consultation with the ‘head specialist’. With a history of sinus problems, I was sure all I needed was antibiotics and possibly some pain medication. The specialist ordered me to go to the hospital for an X-ray. Off we went with our radiography orders. Fatmir’s car is being re-painted so we took the bus the hospital. Two attempts were needed to yield a good image on the X-ray and then it was back to the specialist via taxi.

The official diagnosis was ‘sinus congestion’ and I was prescribed antibiotics, pain/pressure relief medication, syrup for the throat and nose drops. Despite appearing somewhat chaotic (you basically find the relevant medical room/office by asking others waiting in the corridor and then queue outside the appropriate door until someone appears) my experience with the Albanian healthcare system was very good.

That said, it is frustrating to be sitting here, watching a perfect cycling day from the confines of my kitchen/bedroom having spent so long training and organizing this event. Logistically what it means is that the rest day in Sarajevo just disappeared, which also means changing my hostel reservation, and the first ‘rest’ I am likely to have is the short day’s riding going into Budapest. However, as always with trips like this, the plan will evolve once on the road. On a positive side, it will be good to feel human again and begin the ride with a clear head (ears and jaw included) and some energy (hopefully).

Tomorrow the ride should start in earnest.

Eve of the Ride

2007-05-23T06:20:00.000-07:00

“A bicycle does get you there and more.... And there is always the thin edge of danger to keep you alert and comfortably apprehensive. Dogs become dogs again and snap at your raincoat; potholes become personal. And getting there is all the fun.” ~Bill Emerson

Equipment has been tightened, greased, adjusted, washed, and packed.

My test ride has been completed, clothes packed, spokes replaced, wheels trued, brakes overhauled and my list of necessary supplies/equipment checked and re-checked.

To paraphrase Freddie Mercury and Queen all that is left to do now is to get on my bike and ride. And so it will be that tomorrow at approximately 7 am local time, while most of you are sleeping, that I will climb onto my steel stallion and begin my journey across the continent of Europe.

I do not expect to sleep much tonight. For one I have had a cold since yesterday and my sleep was occasional last night to say the least. However, even at 100% a combination of nerves and excitement would undoubtedly keep my mind active and oppose sleep: How tough will the climb be on the bike once I enter Montenegro? After all the preparation and planning the time is now and how wonderful it will be to see Europe from the bike, How far will I get before I break a spoke? What exotic sights, sounds and smells will I experience? How much saddle soreness will I suffer from? Should I turn off along the ‘small’, lightly trafficked road to Bosnia or stay on the main route where the road surface should be better but traffic volume heavier? Will I get to Sarajevo in two days or will it really take me three? Will I reach my fundraising target? And so on and so on.

Thank you again to those of you who have already supported this cause and made a contribution on behalf of yourself or a YMCA. For those that have not yet had the opportunity, gifts can still be made via the link to the right.

Some of you I will meet along the route and I look forward to seeing you soon. Ride updates will be posted here every 2-3 days and I encourage you to visit as time allows and follow my ride north.

Best wishes,

Test Ride – May 12 &13

2007-05-18T04:17:00.000-07:00

With the idea that one fully loaded test ride would be a smart idea before cycling 3300 km across Europe I ventured into Montenegro. The plan was simple: ride to Virpazar along the Montengrin side of Lake Shkoder, then on to the city of Bar, before camping along the coast close to Ulcinj on the Saturday night. Then on the Sunday morning I would cycle the 2 hours back to Shkoder and be ready for my trip to the YMCA Europe General Assembly in Kiev, Ukraine that afternoon.

I had deliberately selected roads I had not ridden on before in order to check how detailed the maps were and deal with the ‘psychology’ of not always being sure exactly where you are that I will encounter on the road.

Many lessons were learned or reinforced during this test ride:

The climbs in the Balkans are steep and hot and the ‘big rig’ (bike + trailer) climbs much more slowly than the bike alone. I obviously already knew this but I managed to find some truly brutal climbs on the Saturday morning.

1. The descents are laced with gravel and are treacherous and it is tough to make up time lost on the climb
2. The food in the Balkans is excellent
3. My spokes are getting brittle and continue to break – lately, I have been breaking a spoke every 3rd ride.
4. Carry water purification tablets and always fill your water bottles when the opportunity presents itself as stores are much more infrequent.
5. Bicycle disc brakes can overheat and fail just like truck brakes – having to walk 9 km off a mountain, to the ‘safety’ of flatter roads, due to lack of stopping power is not fun.
6. Pushing a thorn back into a puncture will seal it – yes, this worked and I was happy to save time not replacing inner tube/sealing tire due to time lost already truing wheel due to broken spoke.
7. Locals often do not camp and do not know directions to campgrounds which are not signposted.
8. Pasta is always welcomed after a hard day in the saddle

It was a good ride overall with all systems (bike, trailer, tent, sleeping pad/bag, and stove) being thoroughly tested. However, the distance I covered was significantly less than I had intended – 112 versus 160 km. Thirty of these kilometres were lost in time due to the problem with the brakes and as soon as I return from the conference I am currently attending I will be replacing the brake pads and re-adjusting everything – it really is very scary to have your brakes fully ‘on’ and still be accelerating downhill.

Overall I feel my 3 biggest issues are likely to be: the sun, broken spokes, and lack of signage indicating where I am and on which road. My plan is to start riding early each day (7 am) and put in about 100-120 km by 1pm before taking a long lunch to avoid the afternoon sun. I will then get back on the bike at 5 pm and complete my daily distance. I have scoured bike shops here in Kiev and acquired 20 new spokes – fingers crossed they ARE the right length.

However, my lost distance has raised some concern that my aggressive riding schedule may be out of reach on some days. So, ‘rest’ days may become ‘ride’ days.

Beckam's BMW lost in Albanian jungle

2007-05-11T05:32:00.000-07:00

“Gazeta! Usqim! Gazeta!” cried the newspaper and food (Usqim) vendor as he boarded the bus that Adam Rychlik (my YMCA Europe boss from Poland) and I were sitting on as we waited to leave the city of Berat. Adam and I had journeyed to the ‘city of a thousand windows’ (so called due its rows of terraced houses with windows facing the river) and were the only 2 passengers on board as we waited for the 10 am departure to Tirana. The vendor looked at Adam and I, seated on opposite sides of the aisle, and repeated his sales pitch. “No, thank you” I replied in Albanian. “Ah, you from where country?” was the next question. “Jam Anglez” I replied, letting him know I was English. This was a mistake. “No, no. Speak English when in Albania” came the Vendor’s instruction. “Albania is jungle. Very dangerous. Is jungle”. I asked why and told him that I liked Albania (again in his mother tongue). “No speak Albanian. You speak English! Albanian bad. Is jungle” This cycle of conversation was repeated for a few minutes until, after a few polite refusals, he realised we would not buying anything and promptly departed. For the record I will say again that I have always felt very safe in Albania, been treated kindly by people wherever I have been and in many cases not been charged for basic services I would have expected, and have been prepared, to pay for.

Adam had flown into Tirana but was departing from Podgorica, Montenegro. Geographically, the capital city of the former Yugoslav territory is closer than Tirana and we had decided to test the logistics of having YMCA guests coming to/from Shkoder arrive/depart in Montenegro. En route to the border we stopped at Restaurant Dardha (The Pear) for lunch.

While eating it came to our attention that David Beckam’s BMW X5 car is being driven in Albania. It is now Becks ex-Beamer. Apparently the car was stolen (allegedly) from England and driven through Europe until it reached the border with Albania (this is why there are so many ‘foreign’ cars in Albania). The story goes that at the border the Vehicle Identification Number was checked. The car was found to be stolen and confiscated by the police. Whether they knew the original owner or not is a matter for debate, though I am inclined to think so.

However, rather than being returned, the vehicle was given to the Minister of Integration as his business car. The media certainly did know who had originally owned the car and when challenged and asked if he intended to return the car to Mr. Posh Spice the minister replied “If Beckam asks for it I will return it, but so far there has been no request”. And who says politicians do not try to do the right thing? A further twist in the tail is that elections were recently held in Albania. The new Minister of Integration is female. This is quite possibly noteworthy in its own right. Her answer when asked if she intended to keep the same car for business? “Beckam is my favourite player. I will keep it”. So Becks, if you are reading and have not already cashed in the insurance policy and upgraded to a Ferrari or similar, give us a shout and we’ll track that car down. (Disclaimer: This information was obtained per chance, through casual lunchtime conversation, and cannot be verified for accuracy. As such it is hearsay. That said, no alcohol was consumed by any party during the meal!)

The trip to Podgorica and back provided other ‘challenges’. There is no direct link from Shkoder to the capital of Montenegro. You can take a taxi, but that seems unreasonably high – about €60. We were driven to the border by Fatmir, leader of YMCA Shkoder. We had intended to walk across the border and find a taxi on the other side to take us to Tuzi where we would then catch a bus to Podgorica – this was already sounding like a lot of work for a 35km/25 mile trip. However, at the border Fatmir saw someone he knew (not a surprise as he seems to know almost everyone) and negotiated our ride to Tuzi. The fee was waived as we were friends of Fatmir.

I was going to say our safe passage was negotiated in the above sentence. However, once into Montenegro the narrow road climbs, twists and turns along the shoreline of Lake Shkoder, throwing oncoming traffic, blind curves, and a surface full of cracks, potholes and undulations at you. (This is the same road that I will cycle on my ride north and the potential hazards were well noted). At one point while driving far too fast for the conditions and on the wrong side of the road, the driver locked the wheels up in order to avoid a head on collision with an oncoming 18-wheeler/articulated lorry. We skidded to the side of the road and the truck blew by us. Obviously we made it, but if I’d had some rosary beads I would have been clutching them tightly.

Podgorica is a small, somewhat overpriced city. The main attractions are the central park with an old Orthodox church, and monument to fallen partisans during WWII, mount Gorica, and the downtown pedestrian area. One night was certainly sufficient to see what the city had to offer.

Adam departed and my journey back was more interesting than my arrival. My instructions before leaving Albania were simple: reverse what you did to get there – bus to Tuzi, taxi to border (€5), walk through the border and you will see a minibus (which I had seen as we approached the border the day before). The plan started unravelling quickly. Firstly, my Serbian does not extend much past ‘hello’, ‘thank you’, and ‘good day/night’. The lady at the bus station did not speak English but understood I needed to go to Tuzi. “No” she said and pointed around the corner - “information”. I am not sure where she was pointing but my search yielded now information office. The few people I spoke to, including at the hotel, had no idea of where the bus to Tuzi left from. Plan B was needed and a taxi was summoned. Price - €25. The taxi driver had an even heavier foot than the driver when we entered the country, and soon the G-forces were pulling me to and fro, back and forth (no seat belt) as we whipped around curves, accelerating and decelerating. He offered to take me all the way to Shkoder, but for €60 this was too expensive.

Crossing the border was simple and I paid the obligatory €10 tax as at that time I had not secured my resident permit. Though, on a brief side note, I am happy to report that I am now the proud owner of said permit and can come and go as I please with no fee.

Finding the minibus proved more of a challenge though. I walked the 500m past the border crossing to where the bus had been the day before. Nothing. I had checked at the border crossing and other than large trucks parked at the café there were no waiting vehicles. I walked some more. It was a hot day: crystal clear blue sky, sun beating down at 3 in the afternoon. I was dressed in a long sleeve shirt (sleeves rolled up) jeans and quite possibly the worst pair of shoes I own for walking a long distance in. No sign of a minibus. I kept walking. I had one small bottle of water and no food. It was hot. It was 15 miles to Shkoder. I was now getting a taste of what many Albanians have to endure on a daily basis. Hitchhiking in Albania was now my one realistic way out of this situation. The first few cars flew by and I made no effort to stop them as I could see all the seats were full. Then for several minutes nothing passed me and I began to ponder the wisdom of my lack of effort.

However, as I approached a petrol/gas station there was a Mercedes (what else?) pulled over with three generations of one family sitting inside. Windows were open as they talked to members of another family standing alongside. I walked past to assess the situation and then turned back and asked the driver through the window if he was going to Shkoder. “No, Bajze” was his reply. I had no idea where Bajze was but he told me it was between where I was standing and Shkoder. While I was stumbling through our conversation the Grandmother gave me the command “hajde” (apologies to Albanians for spelling) - which means ‘let’s go’ – and I jumped in, unsure of where I was actually going. The young child in the back stared at me most of the time, and did not respond to my inquiries of ‘how are you?’ and ‘what is your name?’ The grandmother told me, in English, she had lived in England for 3 years – in Essex (my home county) – but could say no more than that. Conversation was stunted due to lack of language, and the sound of air rushing through four open windows at 90+ km/hr.

Bajze is about 1/3 of the way to Shkoder and we were soon there. From there I caught a bus, along with the grandmother (who got off in Koplik) to Shkoder. During the ride there was much conversation from the other members of the bus about me – “Where is the Englishman going?”, “Shkoder? What does he do there?” is what I believed the discussion to be. I understood some of the talk and listened for a few moments wondering if someone would speak to me directly or just talk about me. There was nothing harmful in their conversation, but it was an interesting situation. When there was a pause in conversation I told them I was going to Shkoder and that I lived and worked there. Compliments, very generously, were given as to the proficiency of my Albanian. Though it was then quickly established that I do not possess the ability to have a conversation as I greeted their words with ‘I am sorry, I do not understand’.

With our adventures to/from Podgorica completed, we decided that although farther away, it is still much more convenient, friendly and cheaper to fly in/out of Tirana. This is combination of lack of reliable transport links between Shkoder and Podgorica, overbearing and impolite airport staff and the high exit fee to leave Montenegro.

The bike ride is approaching fast: in two weeks I will be calling Sarajevo, Bosnia home for two nights. My excitement level is beginning to rise despite the thousand-and-one things I still feel I need to do. However, now that mid-May is here a sense of immanency has arrived with it. Many hours have been put in the saddle over the last few weeks and I have successfully managed a 4 hour test ride with the trailer. Over the last few days I hosted Simon Herzog, a YMCA employee from Switzerland. He is cycling around Kosovo, Macedonia, and Albania visiting YMCAs and seeing first hand the work they are doing. His intent is to take these stories back to Switzerland to support the fundraising event for Balkan YMCAs that his YMCA will run in September. Having arrived by ferry from Italy on Tuesday, he left this morning en route to Pukë and Kukës and will cross into Kosovo tomorrow, finally arriving in Prizren. This is quite possibly the toughest route he could have started with. Steep climbs and descents, ‘iffy’ roads, a significant gain in altitude, and unstable climate caused by the mountains. Still, as the Swiss say: there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing!

Besides having the opportunity to talk to a fellow Y employee/bicycle fundraise, Simon’s visit has buoyed me: he brought me two things I needed but could not get in Albania – camping gas for my stove and a new rear cassette (set of cogs for the gears on the back wheel for the non-cyclists among you). The first of these items is ready to use. However, the slight issue with the cassette is that none of the ‘biçiklist’ repair stands here have the correct tool to replace it :-(. So, this will make up part of my luggage, along with new chain, until I get to Sarajevo or Budapest and can get this repair made.

This weekend will see me cross into Montenegro ‘fully loaded’ to test the setup one more time and spend the night in the tent somewhere. Then it will be back to Shkoder on Sunday before catching the bus to Tirana that afternoon ahead of my 5 am Monday morning flight to Kiev, Ukraine for the YMCA Europe General Assembly from May 14-20. Four days back here and then it is ‘Finland here I come’. The full ride schedule is available by clicking the link to the right.

Near my apartment is a music ‘store’. As a way of advertising his presence, the store owner has loudspeakers set up outside and blasts those within earshot with an eclectic musical repertoire – from Arabic, to Albanian, to classic 80’s like the Bangles and Bonnie Tyler, to the occasional jazz or classical piece. Currently the Albanian version of The Police’s ‘Every Breath You Take’ is playing. The local version is sung by a female and includes Albanian rap. The melody is the only thing I recognize. Albania is indeed a country of energy, enterprise and contrasts.

Come visit sometime.

YMCA Activities and Challenges

2007-05-11T05:18:00.000-07:00

The major work recently has been on securing legal registration in the court system for the YMCA in Shkoder. This will move the organization here from one of an informal group to a legally registered entity. As in most countries around the world, this local YMCA will be affiliated with the national office of YMCA Albania, but will be independent and able to form its own board, constitution and make decisions locally about its governance, structure, programs an how to best serve the local community. Formal status will also allow YMCA Shkoder to apply for funds/grants in their own right without having to pass everything through the National office in Tirana. Even though we are creating an organization in Shkoder, the paperwork must be filed at the court in Tirana. Fatmir and Artan (volunteer director and board member respectively) have been working hard and travelling to the capital frequently to keep the process on track. Yesterday we heard that we have been ‘provisionally approved’ for registration though there were a couple of questions raised. These questions have been answered and we are awaiting the final verdict. Fingers crossed.

Recently I visited the school for Roma children and the Roma community to see the 'encampment' and to visit a family that benefited from one of the sewing machines. The YMCA is at work in both the school and the Roma camp and through donations from St. Albans Baptist Church in England has been able to provide four women with sewing machines in order to mend/make clothes for the community.

There is a challenge facing the operation of the school - many parents are not sending their children due to the need for money/food, via begging, outweighing the need to sit in a classroom. Fatmir and I have discussed a possible solution being for the YMCA to provide school lunches for the children - when the Y has provided a 'day out' and provided lunch attendance has been very high (130 versus the fifty usual attendees) and this has led to increased attendance in school for the next few days until the children/parents realise there is not more food and go back to begging. In a perfect world the 'food' component would be part of a much larger program tackling the issue of child abuse/behavioural issues and would include a school counselor, social workers (for children and to educate the parents on the need/importance for their child to attend school) and recreational activities. However, this of course takes money and donors that have the ability to fund such a program are not so easy to find. However, we will continue to make contacts and see what doors may open for the YMCA to address this important need.

The lady with the sewing machine was very happy to have received it - she lives in a two room house with 15 other people, one of whom has sold her blood every two months for the last 35 years to make money - and has put it to good use making dresses for family/community. I suggested to Fatmir that it could be worth looking into developing this idea further and having the women make clothes for sale - to the Shkoder community and for distribution/sale at international Y events - with revenues being returned to the Roma community. Hopefully this can be explored further.

Visiting the 'encampment' was a sobering experience. There is a one-room cinder block building on the right as you go into the camp. The 'director' of the camp lives in this one room. His room was being used for youth/community activities (chess, dominoes, etc.) until recently. The Y had helped him put a door and windows in his 'home' in exchange for the use of his room for X number of months. That timeframe has now passed and he wants €75 per month for use of the space. The other major issue facing the community there is the lack of potable water. There is a hand pump, but this water cannot be drunk. €300/$500 will pay for the drilling of a well and an electric pump which will supply this area and greater Roma community with potable water. Hopefully funds can be secured for this project in the near future.

Additionally, there is interest on the part of both the YMCA and a local school to operate a day camp this summer. The school is the oldest in Shkoder and is the only 'mainstream' school in the city that accepts Roma children - they have 6 enrolled. The concept is for the YMCA to operate the camp at the school and serve 40-50 children for an 8-10 week period. The idea is in its infancy, but it is hoped they will be able to offer a program containing both recreational. Without the camp a bleak picture is painted: children home alone, or playing football in the street next to speeding vehicles as there is virtually no recreational space for activities to take place in the city. Once again, lack of financial resources - on the part of the parents, the YMCA and the school (teachers often use their own money to buy supplies) - is the main hurdle to overcome.

Tune in regularly for updates on these on other YMCA issues/events.

Balkan YMCAs need your help

2007-04-18T03:05:00.000-07:00

Ian’s Ride for Balkan YMCAs

“Balkans To The Baltic” (Albania to Finland)

2007 YMCA World Service Campaign

To raise money for YMCA programs in the Balkans, YMCA Europe employee Ian Luck will be cycling 3300 km / 2100 miles, via 12 countries, from Shkodër, Albania to Jyvaskyla, Finland in May and June, 2007. His goal is to raise $20,000 of the $75,000 needed for YMCA development in the region. His route will take him from Albania through Montenegro, Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, before finishing in Finland on Midsommer’s Day (June 21). Regular ride updates will be posted to this blog.

· $190 - Average monthly salary in Albania, Europe’s 2nd poorest country
· 900 - Number of youth exposed to the YMCA in Macedonia
· 300 - Number of Shkodran children without access to education for over 15 years
· $0 - Average salary of YMCA employees in Albania and Macedonia
· 300 - Number of orphaned children served by YMCA Bulgaria
· 0 - Sports programs offered outside the YMCA by local schools and organizations in Albania
· 30 - Number of children receiving 100% scholarship to play football in Macedonia
· $45,000 - Cost of a new youth center providing youth leadership, education, sports and other socially relevant programs to the citizens of Shkodër.

YOU CAN HELP MAKE IT BETTER

Your gift will be used to support YMCA programs in one or more of the following areas:
· Health Education: YMCA programs focused on reducing health risks, raising awareness of reproductive health and preventing drug abuse. The YMCA in Ruse, Bulgaria, is delivering HIV and AIDS awareness and drug abuse prevention education among prostitutes leading to healthier lifestyle choices.
· Investing in young people: Through the creation of Youth Activity Centers in Plovdiv (Bulgaria), Shkoder (Albania) and Prishtina (Kosovo) YMCAs provide education, leadership development, and social programs. Through volunteerism, service-learning and other methods, YMCAs assist youth in building relationships, leadership skills and work habits.
· Education: Through the YMCA Macedonia Youth center in Radishani, and the YMCA school in Shkoder, Albania, more than 350 Roma children age 5-14 are now receiving formal education including reading, drama, mathematics, and computer science.
· Strengthening YMCA Movements: Technical and financial resources help YMCAs develop effective leadership, implement sound financial practices and uphold their mission allowing them to better serve needs in their local communities (Macedonia, Albania, Bulgaria, Romania, Kosovo)

However, in order to ensure the operation of these programs we must first raise $75,000

$50 covers the cost of sports jerseys for a team
$100 provides 8 youth with a YMCA membership
$250 will allow a teenager to receive leadership development training
$500 will allow 30 children to attend school by providing desks, chairs and educational materials
$1000 provides a computer for the internet / learning center. (Eight are needed)
$5000 provides the necessary furniture and multimedia equipment (laptop/LCD projector) for the Education Classroom.

Make your commitment today to help the youth of the Balkans by clicking the 'donate now' link on the right of this page

Help us build strong kids, strong families, and strong communities worldwide

Shkoder - foothills of the Accursed Mountains

2007-03-20T04:58:00.000-07:00

‘Tungjatjeta’ from Shkoder - a medium sized, attractive city in the northern Albania. It is considered the cultural capital of Albania and boasts the largest Mosque in the country and the biggest Catholic Church in the Balkans. In a region of such ethnic intolerance, Shkoder (Albania in general) could provide a lesson in living together respectfully. Shkoder is also one of the rare cities in the world that have both lakeside and mountain climates side-by-side: The city sits on Lake Shkoder, the largest lake in the Balkans, and is overlooked by the western end of the Accursed Mountains.

Lake Shkoder is divided between Albania and Montenegro with only 1/3 in Albania. Adding to Shkoder’s natural surroundings are three rivers, Kiri, Drini and Buna, which confluence at the southern end of the city. This is all overlooked by the ruins of Kalaja Rozafa (castle), within whose walls a fair maiden, Rozafa, was buried alive during construction in order to fortify the walls (according to local legend).

There are two borders with Montenegro close by: The closest at Muriqan is only 16km / 10m away. This is a small crossing and is not particularly busy (judging from the activity going on when I have cycled there), even though it is on the main road from Albania to the coastal/resort town of Ulcinj in Montenegro. The second, and major, crossing is at Hani i Hoti, 35km/21m North of Shkoder. This is on the main road from Albania to Podgorica, capital of Montenegro and only 56km/35m away, and therefore well used.

When living in Tirana, upon asking a question about Albania I was always greeted with a question preceding the answer: “Are you asking about Tirana or Albania in general?” Prior observations had already confirmed the answers would be different. Despite the stunning natural beauty of the country as a whole and the outstandingly friendly and helpful people, life outside Tirana is significantly different. Gone are the (relatively) bright lights, late night cafes/clubs, hubbub, bridal shops (yes, there are lots of them), wealth, and energy associated with capital cities. Replaced instead with rural landscapes, more obvious signs of poverty, a lethargy and especially in small, rural towns, a ‘look’ of hardship etched on the faces of the inhabitants. Life in many of these small villages I am sure is tough. Trash litters the roadsides and (as in Tirana) to the uninitiated the only two rules of the road are:
Do what you want
Don’t hit anything

That said, many Shkodrans cycle. Far more than in Tirana. Presumably a combination of a) less chance of being prematurely sent to your grave as a result of decreased traffic volumes and b) the lower income levels, making vehicles less affordable. The main road into Shkoder from Tirana is, to put it mildly, appalling. However, to be fair, this appears to be due to a large sewer (I assume) pipe being laid down the middle of it. The questions with unknown answers are:
1. When will the work be finished?
2. Will there be enough money to complete the work and return the road to an acceptable state?

This though does present the intrepid cyclist with the chance to sprint up the inside of cars, leaving them in my dust, weaving in and out of potholes with forward momentum only occasionally thwarted by gravel-traps. All good training.

However, there are many things to enjoy about Albania (whether in Tirana or the ‘country’): Fruit and vegetables that are full of colour, taste and not touched by GM engineering; the people – their generosity and friendliness/helpfulness is sincere (such as the time I and a friend were locked outside a hotel in the city of Berat at night a few weeks ago or last week when, ashamed of how muddy my bike was I broke down and took it to a ‘car wash’ – the Albanian man scrubbed and rinsed my bike twice by hand, sprayed the tires with his car treatments and made the bike look thoroughly brand new again. However, he would accept no payment); the fact that there are no strict rules of the road – ride anywhere, do not hit anything; the ‘honour’ code of conduct - guests in Albania are treated with dignity and respect (see above): there are a few times I could have been ‘swindled’ due to misunderstanding if I was being charged in ‘old’ Leke or ‘new’ Leke, but I have never been taken advantage of (to the best of my knowledge anyway); the rugged, natural beauty of the country;

As for the YMCA in Shkoder: It was founded in 2001 and has been actively serving the local community since. The main program is serving the Roma (gypsy) community that lives predominantly on the outskirts of town across the one lane bridge traversing the Buna River, on the edge of Lake Shkoder. In this part of town, the poverty is desperate. Water is hand-pumped, children in various states of clothing play games in the street or rummage through mounds of trash at the side of the road in the hope of finding something of value. Value is of course relative. I have seen children, wide-grinned with delight to find a plastic ‘scooter’, and carry it home, despite the fact it is cracked, has no wheels and to you and I would be utterly worthless.

It is in this context, the YMCA caters for the needs of 250 Roma children age 5-14 years. Services to this population include the most basic human needs: providing clothing and food. The YMCA also supplies sports equipment, learning materials and occasional day trips/picnics for the children. All this is accomplished with a budget of €5000/$6500 per year.

Recently the YMCA participated in an 'educational walk' as part of the 'Leave no child out campaign'. This was a local activity raising awareness of the children that are being left behind without access to formal education and had significant media coverage and top regional officials present. As mentioned last time, the latest development in this project is that the YMCA and local education authority have partnered to create a school which will allow 300 Roma children to attend school. These children have not had access to formal education for 15 years. The school building is finished, and through the generous support of St. Albans Baptist Church in England, two classrooms have been outfitted with furnishings and teaching/learning supplies and lessons are underway. Since last writing, monies to outfit the remaining 8 classrooms have been secured through the Ministry of Education. The long term goal is that these children will be integrated into the ‘regular’ education system/civil society through YMCA programs.

Having been here two weeks, and with the support of YMCA Europe and YMCA of the USA, all attention and available resources are being focussed on developing YMCA Shkoder (while still serving/helping our YMCA friends in Tirana).

Therefore, the plan of action for my remaining stay is three-fold at this point and is as follows:

· Develop an ‘internationally-recognized’ NGO governance/operating structure for YMCA Shkoder
· Focus YMCA efforts on the completion and sustainability of the new Roma school program and creation of a Youth Center in Shkoder, while taking advantage of other ongoing opportunities (summer camps, etc.)
· Hold the national General Assembly

Specific steps in the Operational Development Plan for YMCA Shkoder include:
1) Creating a YMCA purpose statement and logo
2) Developing Bye-laws and Constitution
3) Developing a local board of advisors
4) Orienting YMCA leaders and volunteers on History/function of YMCA:
5) Creating Program goals
6) Developing goals and timeline/targets for 2007-2009
7) Relationship building with potential partners

With this forming the backdrop of our ongoing work, the next major initiative of YMCA Shkoder is to create the Youth Centre I referred to last time. The plan is to raise 20% (approximately US$15,000/£8,000/€12,000) of necessary funds here within Albania with the rest being secured from international donations (individual/business contributions and grants). While the amount to be generated within Albania does not seem high compared with Western/Northern standards, when you consider that the average salary in Albania is a mere US$190/£100/€150 per month, it will be quite a challenge.

As far as the Balkan-Baltic sponsored bicycle-ride portion of fundraising is concerned, the goal is US$20,000/£12,000/€16,000. The route is finalized, necessary visas applied for, website and links created, training well underway and host YMCAs notified. Promotional materials will be distributed by the end of next week.

Stay tuned for more from the Land of the Eagle. Best wishes to you all and thanks to all of you who reply to these updates and keep me posted on what is happening back ‘home’ – wherever that may be.

Mirupafshim,

Ian Luck

Border Crossings and Cheddar Cheese

2007-03-02T13:27:00.000-08:00

“ Next time be more careful Mr. Luck”, “Sorry Mr. Luck, we cannot let you board the plane”, “Your passport is missing information – do you have other forms of ID?”, “Our telephone number only works from land-line not a cell phone”, “THIS time, I forgive you”. These were just some of the phrases directed towards me during recent travels in and out of Albania.

Turns out I was illegal after all in Albania and that the information the police gave me was wrong. Well, sort of. Can I stay in Albania 90 days in a calendar year as told by them? Yes. BUT, only 30 days on any one entry. Therefore when leaving for New Year in Finland at my brothers I was busted as illegal. Despite only having been in Albania for 58 days. After pleading my case and offering to pay the 200Euro/$250 fine (presumably for being lazy and silly enough to trust the police as I had not read the 12 sheets of A4/8.5x11 paper that were posted on ‘billboards’ around the airport for foreigners) I was told I was forgiven this time.

So…having arrived back in the country on Jan 5 and knowing I needed a residence permit (Austrian Airlines had prevented me from boarding in Helsinki as I did not have one or a return ticket within 30 days) else face leaving the country again in 29 days, I got the necessary paperwork in order. All that is except for the UK police background check. This has been the stumbling block all along. Turns out that in the terrorist-ridden age we live in, the only way to apply for such a check is to appear IN PERSON at a UK police station. No giving Power-Of-Attorney to a family member, etc. Nope, in person or it does not happen. This is a little tricky when you have lived outside the UK for 12 years and are now in Albania. Not exactly a day trip to get there and back. Then on top of it, it will take up to 6 weeks from the application date to get a result. SIX WEEKS – this makes Albanian bureaucracy look supremely efficient. What to do? Really could not justify the cost of a trip to UK just to visit a police station. Plan trip for weekend in Montenegro and reset 30 days appeared a good short term solution – and as long as I did not leave the country once my 90 days were up , there would be no problem. No-one would be looking for me.

As fate would have it my Green Card renewal appointment came up. I got 10 days notice to be in Charlotte, NC, USA on Jan 24. The proverbial two birds with one stone. My return ticket to US went through London. After more than trouble than it should have been (amazingly British Airway’s number in Albania cannot be reached by using a Vodafone cell-phone) my tickets were changed and I had a day in London to take care of background check business. Green card interview went well and consisted of sitting in a room with about 60 other people before being called to have my photo and fingerprints taken. That was that. Done and dusted for another ten years I guess.

Despite delays getting in and out of US due to weather in Chicago, then Charlotte, an acute attack of gout preventing me from walking, then a supposed airline strike by BA on the way back, I made it back to Albania following my brief stint across the Atlantic. Now, time to do some real work.

Though I had been working on budgets and business plans, plus volunteer job descriptions while away I was looking forward to getting moved to Shkodra and getting immersed in YMCA Albania work. Since I last wrote, the school for Roma children in Shkodra has opened. For the last 15 years, a significant number of children have not had access to education. Through a partnership between the YMCA and the Ministry of Education a new school has been built with both parties contributing resources. Most of the funds generated by the Y have come from St. Albans Baptist Church in England. Two classrooms are currently equipped and the YMCA is working on raising the rest. The Prime Minister was present and it was a bells and whistles event. Shame I was sitting in a room ran by the Department of Homeland Security in the USA while this was going on. Two classrooms have been completely furnished due to the generous efforts of St. Albans church and it is my understanding that the relevant government ministry will furnish the remaining classrooms, allowing up to 300 Roma children to attend school. For the majority this will be there first time in a classroom setting. After school hours the YMCA will have use of some portion of the facility and is also the agency of choice in organizing and running the re-integration programs for the Roma community.

In Tirana, YMCA Albania has a new group of volunteers that have been active since the start of the new year. They are currently involved in creating a vision/plan for the Y through 2010. So far they seem to be making good progress. We are also working on holding the General Assembly and creating a new, autonomous NGO structure for YMCA Shkodra. This will allow them to work independently of the National board and hopefully make them more efficient in some of their endeavors. Additionally, new YMCA office space has been secured in Tirana. This was an important step as the current office lease expired at the end of February and there is not money to cover a new lease. However, the new office is free and has the distinction of being placed, along with many other NGOs in the ‘Pyramid’ – the building which served as the mausoleum for the late communist dictator, Enver Hoxha (Hoja)

The ‘big’ project during my remaining time here will be helping YMCA Shkodra develop their Youth Activity Center. This will provide: a library, study center, internet and computer resource center complete with training classes, leadership development program, camping opportunities for youth, language courses, sports programs, coffee shop and regional YMCA office. Through the sale of memberships and revenue from internet usage and the coffee shop this operation will be self-sustaining. Thus we will shortly begin a fundraising campaign to raise the necessary $75,000 required to make this project a reality. Part of the plan is for a sponsored trans-European bicycle ride from Albania to Finland. You will of course be hearing more about this as plans progress.

Last week I secured an apartment in Shkodra and had planned to begin the moving process earlier this week However, due to a family emergency on part of the landlord that has had to be delayed.

At present I am sitting in Vienna airport – no passport, exit/entry issues so far – en route to Norway. Following that I return to Albania for about 18 hours before boarding the overnight bus to Skopje, Macedonia. While there I will attend the YMCA Field Group meeting for that country which consists of YMCA partners, from various European countries, meeting with our Macedonian counterparts to strategize and plan how to strengthen the YMCA in Macedonia.

OK – I did not get this posted as soon as I had hoped. The bus ride was easier than expected and the only issue was returning when a lady in her 50’s was ejected from the bus at the border crossing for having incorrect papers (I believe). I was treated with the usual cursory look and commanded to pay €10 entry tax.

The meeting in Macedonia was a success with the major decision being that the two YMCA organizations existing there (YCS and YMCA) reached an agreement allowing YCS to take on the role of the National organizational (recognized by YMCA Europe and YUSA) with the local YMCA being a member organization of National. IT is a complicated story of how two YMCA’s came to co-exist but the result now is that there will be one internationally recognized organization which will open up new opportunities for the youth in that country.

Back in Albania I have moved one load of stuff to Shkoder, having staggered to the bus station, during this last week. This weekend I will have the help of an American co-student from my Albanian class to help me move the rest of my belongings in his newly purchased VW van. This conjures up images of ‘bodge-it and son’ removals, but I have nothing really to break except crockery, so should not be too much trouble. Apparently payment is expected in the form of English Cheddar next time I am back there. Definitely will need to issue an IOU on that one.

On that note, I will sign off. More from Southern Europe later this month. Mirupafshim.

Ian

Balkan YMCAs need your help

2007-02-14T03:40:00.000-08:00

Ian’s Ride for Balkan YMCAs

“Balkans To The Baltic” (Albania to Finland)

2007 YMCA World Service Campaign

To raise money for YMCA programs in the Balkans, YMCA Europe employee Ian Luck will be cycling 3300 km / 2100 miles, via 13 countries, from Shkodër, Albania to Jyvaskyla, Finland in May and June, 2007. His goal is to raise $20,000 of the $75,000 needed for YMCA development in the region.

His route will take him from Albania through Montenegro, Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, before finishing in Finland on Midsommer’s Day (June 21). Regular ride updates will be posted to this blog.

· $190 - Average monthly salary in Albania, Europe’s 2nd poorest country
· 900 - Number of youth exposed to the YMCA in Macedonia
· 300 - Number of Shkodran children without access to education for over 15 years
· 300 - Number of children the YMCA plans to integrate into the school system this year
· $0 - Average salary of YMCA employees in Albania and Macedonia
· 300 - Number of orphaned children served by YMCA Bulgaria
· 0 - Sports programs offered outside the YMCA by local schools and organizations in Albania
· 30 - Number of children receiving 100% scholarship to play football in Macedonia
· $45,000 - Cost of a new youth center providing youth leadership,
e education, sports and other socially relevant programs to the citizens of Shkodër.

YOU CAN HELP MAKE IT BETTER

Your gift will be used to support YMCA programs in one or more of the following areas:
· Health Education: YMCA programs focused on reducing health risks, raising awareness of reproductive health and preventing drug abuse. The YMCA in Ruse, Bulgaria, is delivering HIV and AIDS awareness and drug abuse prevention education among prostitutes leading to healthier lifestyle choices.
· Investing in young people: Through the creation of Youth Activity Centers in Plovdiv (Bulgaria), Shkoder (Albania) and Prishtina (Kosovo) YMCAs provide education, leadership development, and social programs. Through volunteerism, service-learning and other methods, YMCAs assist youth in building relationships, leadership skills and work habits.
· Education: Through the YMCA Macedonia Youth center in Radishani, and the YMCA school in Shkoder, Albania, more than 350 Roma children age 5-14 are now receiving formal education including reading, drama, mathematics, and computer science.
· Strengthening YMCA Movements: Technical and financial resources help YMCAs develop effective leadership, implement sound financial practices and uphold their mission allowing them to better serve needs in their local communities (Macedonia, Albania, Bulgaria, Romania, Kosovo)

However, in order to ensure the operation of these programs we must first raise $75,000

$50 covers the cost of sports jerseys for a team
$100 provides 8 youth with a YMCA membership
$250 will allow a teenager to receive leadership development training
$500 will allow 30 children to attend school by providing desks, chairs and educational materials
$1000 provides a computer for the internet / learning center. (Eight are needed)
$5000 provides the necessary furniture and multimedia equipment (laptop/LCD projector) for the Education Classroom.

Make your commitment today to help the youth of the Balkans by clicking the 'donate now' link on the right

Help us build strong kids, strong families, and strong communities worldwide

Missing Manhole Covers & Residency Requirements

2006-12-24T07:50:00.001-08:00

Have been here 6 weeks now. Have been frustrated, excited, challenged, perplexed, and stuck out like a sore thumb during that time. Life here can be summed up in two words: Not boring.

On the work side of things, the major need is for creation and implementation of a strategic plan to take place at all levels. The National structure has remained stagnant for a couple of years now and new energy and personnel are needed to re-invigorate the process. This, coupled with the development of local YMCAs are the two major needs of the YMCA here. Currently there are two local YMCAs – Tirana and Shkodra. Tirana has essentially been inactive for the last year-to-18 months. There are youth who appear interested in creating programs and serving the community in a socially relevant manner. However, the frustration I find, though Albanian culture is not alone in this, is the lack of communication. Both in terms of answers to direct questions and the ability to communicate with the outside world – outgoing internet and phone connections are erratic at best.

That said, the Shkoder YMCA is at the other end of the scale. Though reliant on donations and international contributions, they are running programs, such as: the construction of new school for the education programs they run for Roma children and their families; activity clubs in the areas high schools, and collaborations with other agencies. Their dream is a internet/youth activity centre in the city. This will allow them to provide a needed service and generate a revenue stream, allowing them to move away from donation dependency and build a sustainable movement. There is a team of committed volunteers in place who have already created a pro-forma budget and are working on fundraising ideas.

There are two other branches that either exist conceptually or are in there infancy. Tirana has a second YMCA that was originally created as a (second, unknowingly) National YMCA – this organization has now accepted a National office exists and is willing to serve as a local branch. Then in the city of Vlora in the south of Albania, there is interest in starting a YMCA. It is my hope that in the near future, there will be strategic plans in place to develop each of these branches.

However, given the reality of the situation here in Albania – that Shkoder has the only functioning YMCA, the decision has been made to make Shkoder the center of YMCA activity in Albanian, relocating my office to, and focussing all the Movement’s efforts on, that city. Shkoder lies about 25 km / 15 miles from Montenegro and is the cultural capital of the country. I will move there in the New Year and have three main priorities: establishment of internationally recognized NGO structure for YMCA Shkoder; assisting them in their work with the Roma community; and, planning for/realization of the Youth Center. I am excited about my new move and opportunity.

On the non-work side of things, ‘life is like a box of chocolates’ to quote Forrest Gump.
There was the morning I was woken early by a knock on the door. Thinking it was the internet installation team finally returning to finish the job I hurried to the door. Instead of technicians I found an elderly lady with mop and bucket in hand, asking me (to the best of my understanding) if I wanted her to clean my apartment on a regular basis? I politely declined. I was amused, puzzled and disappointed (still not internet after almost 7 weeks).
On a regular basis I am accosted by taxi drivers and old men hawking hotel rooms as I walk back to my apartment after late evenings at internet cafes. ‘Jo faleminderit, Unë banoj në Tiranë’ has become my mantra (No thank you, I live in Tirana).
It is easy to see why buses and minibuses (the main form of intercity transport in Albania) leave early in the morning and arrive before dark. The roads vary widely between fair and horrendous. The majority fall into the latter category. I have my mountain bike with me and am training for a long trans-European ride. However, I will not ride at night: road surfaces suddenly disappear, replaced by pothole ridden/gravel surfaces for kilometres at a time. Manhole covers are missing on both road and pavement/sidewalk – making any form of movement after dark potentially lethal. Seeing people walking with torches lighting there way at night is not uncommon.
Albanians would like to join the EU. That is a long way off happening. Aforementioned infrastructure issues are one concern. Safety standards will be another for the ‘suits’ in Brussels. To see someone cycling with a large propane tank strapped across the back of their bike is common. A seatbelt wearer is reason to reach for your camera.
Power outages are common – especially with winter approaching and heaters now being used in homes. A second laptop battery was probably the smartest pre-trip purchase I made. Candles and/or flashlight are a must in any home here. Being without power is not that big of deal – though the frequency with which it happens is tiresome – unless you lose power 15 minutes before guests are due to arrive at your apt for a party! Food on stove, music playing, etc – as happened to me last week.
As mentioned earlier, Albania is not the only place where lack of, and mis-, information exists. I had been repeatedly told before leaving the USA that I could renew my Green Card while overseas. Yes, you know what is coming. Turns out that is not true. Well, it is sort of. After much protesting and discussion I have been granted permission to apply from here, but if new biographic information (fingerprints, medical, etc.) is needed I MUST return to USA to have this done. So…..fingers crossed.
But not to be outdone, when I applied for my residency permit at the local police station here three weeks ago I was informed I am here illegally! Therefore, I must leave and not return until January, 2007. Their rationale? That I came in May as a tourist and left after 3 days. Therefore, my 90 days to stay in Albania started on May 11 and expired on August 8 – making my re-entry in November (not to mention my visit in October) illegal. This argument holds no water – but the kicker is: due to the fact that they refused to issued my permit when I applied I am NOW illegal. So…..fingers crossed.

On the positive side: the people are wonderfully helpful and friendly (where else would the managing director of DHL personally collect you from an internet café and transport you and your recently arrived package to your apartment?), food is great, there is a dynamic energy to life in Tirana, my love of coffee can be indulged (though Belgian beer is hard to find), there is a code of honour that exists and I have always felt safe here, and as I am sure you have noticed from my earlier writing, life is more relaxed.

I wish each of you a festive Holiday season and a healthy and prosperous 2007. Gezuar festat dhe vitin i ri.

Ian

Arrival in Tirana

2006-11-15T07:57:00.000-08:00

Mirëdita All,

Just a quick (really) update to let you know what I have been up to since my last communiqué.

In July I attended the 16th World Council of YMCAs in Durban, South Africa as part of the World Alliance Staff team. Overall the event was a big success, though as is usual when you are part of the ‘host/organizing’ team, I actually saw very little of the conference itself due to the necessary behind-the-scenes work. The evaluation of the GOP process in the Sierra Leone and Russia YMCAs was completed and presented to the delegates. Information on the World Council and findings of the assessment can be found on the World Alliance website at http://www.ymca.int/index.php?id=647 and http://www.ymca.int/uploads/media/GOP_Evaluation_Final_Report_30_june_06_-_accepted_01.pdf for those of you that are interested.

From a personal perspective, the one negative of attending the World Council was that after returning from Durban and suffering from pain and swelling in my leg, I was diagnosed with Deep Vein Thrombosis (an 8 cm/3 inch blood clot) in late July. The result of this was that I spent the next 10 weeks in Geneva (instead of moving to Albania in early September) undergoing anti-coagulation and blood thinning treatment and was ‘banned’ from airline travel during this time. However, thrombosis did not stop me attending the centennial celebrations of the Romford YMCA (England) where I grew up and gave me a good excuse to utilize the rail link from Geneva to London provided by TGV and EuroStar.

At the end of September I was cleared to return to work and the next day flew to Bulgaria to attend the YMCA Partner Group meeting whose purpose is to work with our Bulgarian counterparts in strengthening the YMCA movement there. From there it was on to the Field Group meeting in Albania and more brainstorming/planning to help generate the building of YMCA capacity in Europe’s third poorest country. From there it was a whirlwind of stops in Geneva, London, North Carolina, Chicago, London and……..

…….Finally in early November I landed in Tirana, Albania to begin my 12-month assignment in the Land of the Eagle (as Albania translates from its native language). My role here will be organizational development in the emerging YMCA movement. This will principally consist of strategic planning, human resource and leadership development through training, constitutional review, development of governance policies and procedures, and partnership and collaboration development to ensure long term sustainability. So far my experiences in Albania, besides the expected meetings and office set up responsibilities, have included eating sheep's eye, attending an Albanian wedding, and dodging uncovered manholes (lethal - particularly at night) on the streets and pavements of Tirana.

More on my ongoing experiences will follow soon. Please update your address books with my new contact information listed below.

Best wishes to you all and please let me know your news when you have the time.