Missing Manhole Covers & Residency Requirements

Have been here 6 weeks now. Have been frustrated, excited, challenged, perplexed, and stuck out like a sore thumb during that time. Life here can be summed up in two words: Not boring.

On the work side of things, the major need is for creation and implementation of a strategic plan to take place at all levels. The National structure has remained stagnant for a couple of years now and new energy and personnel are needed to re-invigorate the process. This, coupled with the development of local YMCAs are the two major needs of the YMCA here. Currently there are two local YMCAs – Tirana and Shkodra. Tirana has essentially been inactive for the last year-to-18 months. There are youth who appear interested in creating programs and serving the community in a socially relevant manner. However, the frustration I find, though Albanian culture is not alone in this, is the lack of communication. Both in terms of answers to direct questions and the ability to communicate with the outside world – outgoing internet and phone connections are erratic at best.

That said, the Shkoder YMCA is at the other end of the scale. Though reliant on donations and international contributions, they are running programs, such as: the construction of new school for the education programs they run for Roma children and their families; activity clubs in the areas high schools, and collaborations with other agencies. Their dream is a internet/youth activity centre in the city. This will allow them to provide a needed service and generate a revenue stream, allowing them to move away from donation dependency and build a sustainable movement. There is a team of committed volunteers in place who have already created a pro-forma budget and are working on fundraising ideas.

There are two other branches that either exist conceptually or are in there infancy. Tirana has a second YMCA that was originally created as a (second, unknowingly) National YMCA – this organization has now accepted a National office exists and is willing to serve as a local branch. Then in the city of Vlora in the south of Albania, there is interest in starting a YMCA. It is my hope that in the near future, there will be strategic plans in place to develop each of these branches.

However, given the reality of the situation here in Albania – that Shkoder has the only functioning YMCA, the decision has been made to make Shkoder the center of YMCA activity in Albanian, relocating my office to, and focussing all the Movement’s efforts on, that city. Shkoder lies about 25 km / 15 miles from Montenegro and is the cultural capital of the country. I will move there in the New Year and have three main priorities: establishment of internationally recognized NGO structure for YMCA Shkoder; assisting them in their work with the Roma community; and, planning for/realization of the Youth Center. I am excited about my new move and opportunity.

On the non-work side of things, ‘life is like a box of chocolates’ to quote Forrest Gump.
There was the morning I was woken early by a knock on the door. Thinking it was the internet installation team finally returning to finish the job I hurried to the door. Instead of technicians I found an elderly lady with mop and bucket in hand, asking me (to the best of my understanding) if I wanted her to clean my apartment on a regular basis? I politely declined. I was amused, puzzled and disappointed (still not internet after almost 7 weeks).
On a regular basis I am accosted by taxi drivers and old men hawking hotel rooms as I walk back to my apartment after late evenings at internet cafes. ‘Jo faleminderit, Unë banoj në Tiranë’ has become my mantra (No thank you, I live in Tirana).
It is easy to see why buses and minibuses (the main form of intercity transport in Albania) leave early in the morning and arrive before dark. The roads vary widely between fair and horrendous. The majority fall into the latter category. I have my mountain bike with me and am training for a long trans-European ride. However, I will not ride at night: road surfaces suddenly disappear, replaced by pothole ridden/gravel surfaces for kilometres at a time. Manhole covers are missing on both road and pavement/sidewalk – making any form of movement after dark potentially lethal. Seeing people walking with torches lighting there way at night is not uncommon.
Albanians would like to join the EU. That is a long way off happening. Aforementioned infrastructure issues are one concern. Safety standards will be another for the ‘suits’ in Brussels. To see someone cycling with a large propane tank strapped across the back of their bike is common. A seatbelt wearer is reason to reach for your camera.
Power outages are common – especially with winter approaching and heaters now being used in homes. A second laptop battery was probably the smartest pre-trip purchase I made. Candles and/or flashlight are a must in any home here. Being without power is not that big of deal – though the frequency with which it happens is tiresome – unless you lose power 15 minutes before guests are due to arrive at your apt for a party! Food on stove, music playing, etc – as happened to me last week.
As mentioned earlier, Albania is not the only place where lack of, and mis-, information exists. I had been repeatedly told before leaving the USA that I could renew my Green Card while overseas. Yes, you know what is coming. Turns out that is not true. Well, it is sort of. After much protesting and discussion I have been granted permission to apply from here, but if new biographic information (fingerprints, medical, etc.) is needed I MUST return to USA to have this done. So…..fingers crossed.
But not to be outdone, when I applied for my residency permit at the local police station here three weeks ago I was informed I am here illegally! Therefore, I must leave and not return until January, 2007. Their rationale? That I came in May as a tourist and left after 3 days. Therefore, my 90 days to stay in Albania started on May 11 and expired on August 8 – making my re-entry in November (not to mention my visit in October) illegal. This argument holds no water – but the kicker is: due to the fact that they refused to issued my permit when I applied I am NOW illegal. So…..fingers crossed.

On the positive side: the people are wonderfully helpful and friendly (where else would the managing director of DHL personally collect you from an internet café and transport you and your recently arrived package to your apartment?), food is great, there is a dynamic energy to life in Tirana, my love of coffee can be indulged (though Belgian beer is hard to find), there is a code of honour that exists and I have always felt safe here, and as I am sure you have noticed from my earlier writing, life is more relaxed.

I wish each of you a festive Holiday season and a healthy and prosperous 2007. Gezuar festat dhe vitin i ri.

Ian