right side. Took another 15 mins to locate an ATM. Armed with a day's worth of Slovak currency I set off for Kalinovo.I enjoyed the rolling Slovakian countryside, the peacefulness and the sound of the birds. At one point I passed a sign indicating scheduled daily 'cattle crossings'. As luck would have it I had avoided the 'rush hour' period of bovine movment and my ride north was uninterrupted. The climbs were becoming steeper and longer.
In the village of Zlatno I took shade under tree next to a church for refreshment: snickers and a c
oke. I encountered an older gentleman who in other contexts I may have assumed was homeless. He told me the original church was destroyed in WWI and that this church had been designed by a famous Slovakian architect from Bratislava. It had opened in 1922 following 6 years of planning/construction and that there is a twin-church in Slovakia also. He added that times had been better when the country was Czechoslovakia before 'the division': Czech Republic now has all industry and Slovakia is poor neighbour with rural economy.
oke. I encountered an older gentleman who in other contexts I may have assumed was homeless. He told me the original church was destroyed in WWI and that this church had been designed by a famous Slovakian architect from Bratislava. It had opened in 1922 following 6 years of planning/construction and that there is a twin-church in Slovakia also. He added that times had been better when the country was Czechoslovakia before 'the division': Czech Republic now has all industry and Slovakia is poor neighbour with rural economy. People in Hnusta suggested I not try and cycle through the High Tatras. I pushed on towards Tisovec and the climbs really started. First came the 7% signs, th
en the 12%. My gears were not shifting properly and my knees were screaming at having to climb in bigger gears than they wanted. 'Granny' gear (easiest possible to pedal) was found for the first time. The wisdom of my Hnusta advisors was becoming apparent. It was all I could do to maintain 5 km/h. This meant the German Shepherd guard dog closed the distance between us rapidly, teeth snapping, eyes on my right calf! I accelerated to the dizzying speed of 8 km/h and then sat before tendons snapped or my heart exploded. The dog backed off.
en the 12%. My gears were not shifting properly and my knees were screaming at having to climb in bigger gears than they wanted. 'Granny' gear (easiest possible to pedal) was found for the first time. The wisdom of my Hnusta advisors was becoming apparent. It was all I could do to maintain 5 km/h. This meant the German Shepherd guard dog closed the distance between us rapidly, teeth snapping, eyes on my right calf! I accelerated to the dizzying speed of 8 km/h and then sat before tendons snapped or my heart exploded. The dog backed off.I was rewareded for my efforts with a 12% downhill and the road then dipped and rose into Poprad. I had given everything to get over the mountains (and not entered High Tatras yet) and my knees were shattered. I opted for a hotel instead of pushing another 12 km in failing light. I could barely keep my eyes open during dinner and after a much needed bath it was an early night.
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