May 29: Into Croatia, 96 km

Got up later than planned due to sleepless night before and nervously ordered bread and jam for breakfast. Got what I ordered but also butter and cheese. Opened butter packet and this realeased and rancid smell and revealed green fur all over packet. The smell was nauseating and the plate was pushed as far away on table as space would allow. Happily, bread and jam went down and stayed down.

Crossed into Croatia around 10 am. The terrain was now flat. Good for the legs potentially as they could recover a little after all the climbing, but very boring. After 28 km, I heard the familiar 'crack' of a spoke break. I had broken one late in the evening the day before and had trued the wheel without replacing the spoke. Now I had two to fix. Pulled over at next petrol garage and began work. Quickly realised that I could only fix one - the second needed the cassette to be removed to thread the spoke. Fixed what I could and rode on. I had lost over an hour changing the spoke and was now facing a head wind and recalculating how I would keep to my schedule. The thought of taking the train entered my mind for the first time.

The roads were mindnumbingly flat and monotonous. NO challenge, no rest. Another storm swept over me as I neared Osijek - I had changed route on the advice of a bike mechanic who I had hoped could fix bike was unable as he did not have the cassette removal tool.


I entered Osijek cold, wet and very hungry. I had to eat. I had already decided I at least needed to check the train schedule and think about my options over 'lunch' - it was now alrady 3:30 pm. And then it happened - Pulling away from a traffic light. "Snap!", the bike lurched right as I fell forward. How I avoided the curb and stayed upright I do not know. I looked down, though I already knew what had happened: my new chain had snapped!! The Sarajevo mechanic must have put the pin in incorrectly. Mind made up - train to Budapest it would be.

Some local lads helped me get to a bike store where I had everythign possible done to the bike: relaced all spokes on the rear wheel, new bottom bracket, new chain obviously, new bottle cage, new gloves and even a pair of socks. The mechanics were great, ordering pizza and coke and working on my bike for about 3 hours.

They asked where I was staying and I said I hoped to find a cheap hotel. Once we established I would pay 20 euros for a room they called a friend with an apartment and hooked me up for said price, including breakfast. Top blokes!

Silvio, bike store owner cycled with me to train station and I purchased my ticket for the direct train to Budapest tomorrow. 6 hour to go about 250 km as the crow flies - not sure exactly where train is going (?). Then we cycled the 6 or so km to the apartment. We said our goodbyes and thank yous on my behalf and then it was time for a shower and sleep.

May 28: Sarajevo to somewhere in Bosnia, 189 km

Was out the door at 7:10 and ready to roll. However, bank cards would not work at ATM and I was delayed waiting for bureau de change to open.

Lots of climbing early in the day and my stomach did not feel good. Most of the day I felt nauseous. Had my first cola at 9 am. Sky Cola was on offer. NOt the 'Real Thing' but it did proclaim 'original American taste'!

Once again got rained on - this time the storm was accompanied by pea size hail. Though I took shelter under trees the 'ting ting' sound of hail on my bike helmet was heard repeatedly.

Gradually I came out of the mountains and was making good time. However, I ended up the wrong road despite asking three people to confirm where I was! Originally frustrated I then realised that if I just kept on riding I would meet back up with my intended route tomorrow and effectively both options were two sides of a diamond.

Camping that night was not an option as I passed multiple signs proclaiming 'danger - mines' at the roadside. Instead opted for a hotel, figuring that 10 euros was a small price to pay in order to be assured of keeping both my legs. I raced the sunset north towards the Bosnian/Croatian border at Orasje. I won. Just. My room was above a restuarant and was sparse. But after 189 km what did I care? I just needed food and sleep.

Food was easy and I went down for dinner. Steak and fries. Sleep proved more difficult as my stomach refused to digest what I had eaten and my sleep was fegularly interrupted at 90 minute or so intervals with trips to the bathroom!

May 27 - Sarajevo

Got up earlier than planned as need for food outweighed need for sleep. Spent the day exploring some of Sarejevos sights: old town, Latin bridge where WWI started with the assasination of Archduke Ferdinand and plenty of signs of the recent war - pockmarked buildings, etc.

Managed to get my bike repaired - I had been carrying spare parts since Albania that I could not get fitted there due to lack of tools. Was happy to finally have new rear cassette and chain on.

Had good conversation with man who helped me find bike shop, mainly about the recent conflict. He told me, with the sense of pride someone would show if they bought a new car, that he had blown up the butcher's shop with 100 kg TNT. He is Moslem and the shop was housing Chetnik snipers. From where we drank coffee he showed me his 'front line' position on the other side of the river Miljacka. His brother had been killed in the war. He was a journalist and had followed Richard HOlbrooke to Bajram Curri, Albania during the Kosovo conflict in 1997. Albania was a dangerous place he said, but that he had felt safe on teh front lines of Sarajevo! It was a fascinating conversation.

May 26: Piva to Sarajevo, Bosnia - 140 km

The monastery dog had kept me awake half the night - barking and chasing heaven only knows what. I awoke at 6:15 to find him asleep under a tree!

I hung me wet clothes on the bike hoping that the early morning sun would dry them a little before setting off. I was feeling very hungry but had no food other than trail mix - I did NOT want a bowl of that for breakfast. I was told I could bread from the same restuarant that I'd received water from the day before. I had a quick look around the Monastery which was now unlocked - there was Mass at 8 am and a baptism at 8:30. Even though I know what to expect inside an Orthodox church I am always stunned at the beauty and radiance of the icons and other adornments inside. Piva was no exception.

I left for the cafe only to be told upon arrival that there was no bread. But I could order a sandwich. I asked for two. They were huge - thick slices of bread loaded with salted ham and cheese. The salt was too much adn I ate the second with cheese only. A new first for me: this was all washed down with a coke for breakfast! I was craving sugar.

Tackling the 7% climb was the first order of business and I started at 8:55. Later than planned but I was grateful for the relaxed breakfast I had enjoyed. I huffed and puffed as my legs tried to warm up. Then to my great, and pleasant, surprise after only 2 km the road began to dip and I screamed in Pluzine. From Pluzine to the border with Bosnia the route can be described in one word: spectacular! Plivsko Canyon forms a natural reservoir, torquise in colour. The road follows this closely through a series of 20-30 tunnels (I lost count) and is flat much of the time with the occasional climb to keep adventure cyclists honest.


I passed out of Serbia with no problem and had a friendly chat with the border guards about my trip. A very steep, but short descent followed to the Bosnian checkpoint. I took a photo of the 'Welcome to Bosnia' sign. Mistake. A border guard came over and yelled at me for taking photos and then refused to take my passport, instead ordering me to wait in the already hot sun. Maybe Bosnian state secrets are concealed within the sign or possible he thought I was a terrrorist sent to wreak havoc on two wheels. Finally I was cleared to enter Republika Srpska (one 'half' of Bosnia). The road sign warned to drive carefully due to road conditions fro the next 15 km and the surface, was there was once pavement, did not disappoint.

Coke two came at 11:30 and lunch was taken an couple of hours later at a roadside cafe: fried meat sandwich. And lots of water. Could not face another coke. I was halfway to Sarajevo with 65 km to go. A storm threatened and I decided to get back on the bike about 3 pm. The road continued to wind through canyons which protected me somewhat from the sun. The sky darkened and the wind picked up. At Dobro Polje I passed the first cafe and then a beer joint. I needed water but neither place appealed to me. I then saw the sign announcing the end of the village and turned back for the bar. Beer was all that was inside - cases of it. NO coke, no wine, no soft drinks, just beer. The owner did have a tap outside and I filled my water bottles.

Through the use of forearms to show gradient I asked about the grade over the next 35 km to Sarajevo (I was standing at the bottom of a hill). 5 km uphill he motioned, 'then fsshhht!' with his arm poined down. He increased the angle of his arm to show a steep descent, then levelled it off slightly and said 'Sarajevo'. To his discredit I thought 'No way is there a 30 km descnet to Sarajevo'. He was correct on all counts. At 5.1 km the road levelled and then I started falling with gravity at about 65 km/h again. The only negative was that 2 km into the climb it had started raining. Lightly at first. Then harder. Now it was pouring. I could barely see on the descent. Effectively I was being 'pushed' from behind by the trailer and I was aware that one mistake could end more than the bike trip. The road levelled off but had a downward bias and I raced over the remaining 35 km in a little over an hour. Life was good.

I entered Sarajevo at 6:15 and then took an hours and 10 km to find my hostel. Noone could tell me where it was. Finally, a sunglass/umbrella salesman came to my rescue and got hold of the hostel owner who then came to meet me in the old town. Sixty seconds later and the owner appeared (need to look his name up again). Posillipo Hostel is clean, RIGHT next to the old town, and comfortable. I love the feel of Sarajevo and have added my rest day back in - I will just have to ride 170 km/day for the following three days to reach Budapest on schedule.

I took care of my two most urgent needs: shower and food - though not necessarily in that order.

May 25: Shkoder - Piva Monastery, 174 km

I have never measured a trip by my Coca-Cola consumption. There is a first time for everything.

Woke up feeling much better and was on the road by 7:15. Through the Serbian enclave in Vraka, Albania and past the new Serbian Orthodox church. School children looked on in amazement and waved as I passed through Koplik before reaching the Montenegrin border at 8:45. I was ahead of schedule.

First Coke was consumed in the 'no-man's land' between the Albanian and Montenegrin border posts at 9 o'clock. The climb into Montenegro was not as harsh as I feared and soon I reached Tuzi, stopping briefly at the Catholic Church memorializing Mother Teresa. The countryside was rollings hills set against a backdrop of mountains and I knew the road would get vertical soon. Vineyards on one side and fig orchards on the other.

I blew through Podgorica and continued on toward Niksic, stopping for a 2nd coke at 11 am. Lots of dates are commemorized in hotel, restaurant names and on busses in Montenegro: 19 Dec., 7 Jan., 5 Dec. Everything was fine until Danilovgrad and I was making good time. Things were looking up. Things literally looked up from this point on as the road climbed for the next 28 km (18 miles). It was hot, with hiding place from the sun and not once did the gradient diminish or flatten. With the extra weight of the trailer it is as near to being 'broken' on a climb as I have come. I was despearate for water and shade and found a restaurant at Ostrog: coke 3, water and a fruit salad followed.

I waved goodbye to the bus load of Hungarian tourists having done 'an interview' for their home movie special - somewhere in Budapest I am a household name!! Back on the road I entered a long tunnel. Unusally there were lights inside and I knew it would be a long, dark ride for the next several minutes. At soem poing I crested the hill in the dark and descended in to the town of Niksic.

Had lunch in the pictureque square and visited the sights. Got back on the bike at 4 pm telling myself to get to Pluzine before nightfall so that I 'only' had 130 km to Sarajevo the next day. Storm!! Out of nowhere I was suddenly in driving rain. The good news: the wind as at my back. The bad news: 4 km later I realised I was on wrong road! Having turned around the road climbed again. And it climbed. And climbed, summiting at 1200 metres.

I was running low on water again and found a roadside store. Time for a coke and dinner supplies. Pasta, ham and fruit. The road soon dipped and I descended at 65 km/h plus toward Piva. I fillled water bottles again and considered going the final 6 km to Pluzine. That was until I saw the sign announcing a 7% climb. I did not have the mental or physical strength to climb again and took the option of dowhill to the monastery.

Abbot Nikifor agreed to let me pitch my tent in the monastery grounds. The stone structure had been moved, stone by stone, from a nearby lake over a period of 12 years between 1970 - 1982. The stone numbers are still visible. I cooked my gourmet meal of plain pasta and ate it with my bananas and apple. The abbout provided bread. Not the greatest post-ride meal, but it was calories. Then I went to bed!

For those that have asked, here are the ride stats: 174 km, average speed of 19.5 km/hr, ride time of 8 hrs 52 mins, 9176 calories burned.

May 24 - The Phoney Ride

Sinus infections and long-distance bike trips really do not go together. Having felt unwell for the past two days, as of going to bed last night I was prepared to cycle into Montenegro, then Serbia today. I went to bed early and did not watch all the Champion’s League Final (yes, that is how tired I felt) and assumed that Milan won as I was woken by the sound of celebratory gunfire – one gunman, eight bullets. No car horns honking, just gunfire.

However, at approximately 4 am this morning, upon waking with a throbbing head and aching jaws, I decided that a visit to the doctor was more prudent that a 160 km bicycle ride. Arlind and Fatmir, YMCA leaders and translator, negotiated a rapid consultation with the ‘head specialist’. With a history of sinus problems, I was sure all I needed was antibiotics and possibly some pain medication. The specialist ordered me to go to the hospital for an X-ray. Off we went with our radiography orders. Fatmir’s car is being re-painted so we took the bus the hospital. Two attempts were needed to yield a good image on the X-ray and then it was back to the specialist via taxi.

The official diagnosis was ‘sinus congestion’ and I was prescribed antibiotics, pain/pressure relief medication, syrup for the throat and nose drops. Despite appearing somewhat chaotic (you basically find the relevant medical room/office by asking others waiting in the corridor and then queue outside the appropriate door until someone appears) my experience with the Albanian healthcare system was very good.

That said, it is frustrating to be sitting here, watching a perfect cycling day from the confines of my kitchen/bedroom having spent so long training and organizing this event. Logistically what it means is that the rest day in Sarajevo just disappeared, which also means changing my hostel reservation, and the first ‘rest’ I am likely to have is the short day’s riding going into Budapest. However, as always with trips like this, the plan will evolve once on the road. On a positive side, it will be good to feel human again and begin the ride with a clear head (ears and jaw included) and some energy (hopefully).

Tomorrow the ride should start in earnest.

Eve of the Ride

“A bicycle does get you there and more.... And there is always the thin edge of danger to keep you alert and comfortably apprehensive. Dogs become dogs again and snap at your raincoat; potholes become personal. And getting there is all the fun.” ~Bill Emerson

Equipment has been tightened, greased, adjusted, washed, and packed.

My test ride has been completed, clothes packed, spokes replaced, wheels trued, brakes overhauled and my list of necessary supplies/equipment checked and re-checked.

To paraphrase Freddie Mercury and Queen all that is left to do now is to get on my bike and ride. And so it will be that tomorrow at approximately 7 am local time, while most of you are sleeping, that I will climb onto my steel stallion and begin my journey across the continent of Europe.

I do not expect to sleep much tonight. For one I have had a cold since yesterday and my sleep was occasional last night to say the least. However, even at 100% a combination of nerves and excitement would undoubtedly keep my mind active and oppose sleep: How tough will the climb be on the bike once I enter Montenegro? After all the preparation and planning the time is now and how wonderful it will be to see Europe from the bike, How far will I get before I break a spoke? What exotic sights, sounds and smells will I experience? How much saddle soreness will I suffer from? Should I turn off along the ‘small’, lightly trafficked road to Bosnia or stay on the main route where the road surface should be better but traffic volume heavier? Will I get to Sarajevo in two days or will it really take me three? Will I reach my fundraising target? And so on and so on.

Thank you again to those of you who have already supported this cause and made a contribution on behalf of yourself or a YMCA. For those that have not yet had the opportunity, gifts can still be made via the link to the right.

Some of you I will meet along the route and I look forward to seeing you soon. Ride updates will be posted here every 2-3 days and I encourage you to visit as time allows and follow my ride north.

Best wishes,