Test Ride – May 12 &13

With the idea that one fully loaded test ride would be a smart idea before cycling 3300 km across Europe I ventured into Montenegro. The plan was simple: ride to Virpazar along the Montengrin side of Lake Shkoder, then on to the city of Bar, before camping along the coast close to Ulcinj on the Saturday night. Then on the Sunday morning I would cycle the 2 hours back to Shkoder and be ready for my trip to the YMCA Europe General Assembly in Kiev, Ukraine that afternoon.

I had deliberately selected roads I had not ridden on before in order to check how detailed the maps were and deal with the ‘psychology’ of not always being sure exactly where you are that I will encounter on the road.

Many lessons were learned or reinforced during this test ride:

The climbs in the Balkans are steep and hot and the ‘big rig’ (bike + trailer) climbs much more slowly than the bike alone. I obviously already knew this but I managed to find some truly brutal climbs on the Saturday morning.

1. The descents are laced with gravel and are treacherous and it is tough to make up time lost on the climb
2. The food in the Balkans is excellent
3. My spokes are getting brittle and continue to break – lately, I have been breaking a spoke every 3rd ride.
4. Carry water purification tablets and always fill your water bottles when the opportunity presents itself as stores are much more infrequent.
5. Bicycle disc brakes can overheat and fail just like truck brakes – having to walk 9 km off a mountain, to the ‘safety’ of flatter roads, due to lack of stopping power is not fun.
6. Pushing a thorn back into a puncture will seal it – yes, this worked and I was happy to save time not replacing inner tube/sealing tire due to time lost already truing wheel due to broken spoke.
7. Locals often do not camp and do not know directions to campgrounds which are not signposted.
8. Pasta is always welcomed after a hard day in the saddle

It was a good ride overall with all systems (bike, trailer, tent, sleeping pad/bag, and stove) being thoroughly tested. However, the distance I covered was significantly less than I had intended – 112 versus 160 km. Thirty of these kilometres were lost in time due to the problem with the brakes and as soon as I return from the conference I am currently attending I will be replacing the brake pads and re-adjusting everything – it really is very scary to have your brakes fully ‘on’ and still be accelerating downhill.

Overall I feel my 3 biggest issues are likely to be: the sun, broken spokes, and lack of signage indicating where I am and on which road. My plan is to start riding early each day (7 am) and put in about 100-120 km by 1pm before taking a long lunch to avoid the afternoon sun. I will then get back on the bike at 5 pm and complete my daily distance. I have scoured bike shops here in Kiev and acquired 20 new spokes – fingers crossed they ARE the right length.

However, my lost distance has raised some concern that my aggressive riding schedule may be out of reach on some days. So, ‘rest’ days may become ‘ride’ days.

Beckam's BMW lost in Albanian jungle

“Gazeta! Usqim! Gazeta!” cried the newspaper and food (Usqim) vendor as he boarded the bus that Adam Rychlik (my YMCA Europe boss from Poland) and I were sitting on as we waited to leave the city of Berat. Adam and I had journeyed to the ‘city of a thousand windows’ (so called due its rows of terraced houses with windows facing the river) and were the only 2 passengers on board as we waited for the 10 am departure to Tirana. The vendor looked at Adam and I, seated on opposite sides of the aisle, and repeated his sales pitch. “No, thank you” I replied in Albanian. “Ah, you from where country?” was the next question. “Jam Anglez” I replied, letting him know I was English. This was a mistake. “No, no. Speak English when in Albania” came the Vendor’s instruction. “Albania is jungle. Very dangerous. Is jungle”. I asked why and told him that I liked Albania (again in his mother tongue). “No speak Albanian. You speak English! Albanian bad. Is jungle” This cycle of conversation was repeated for a few minutes until, after a few polite refusals, he realised we would not buying anything and promptly departed. For the record I will say again that I have always felt very safe in Albania, been treated kindly by people wherever I have been and in many cases not been charged for basic services I would have expected, and have been prepared, to pay for.

Adam had flown into Tirana but was departing from Podgorica, Montenegro. Geographically, the capital city of the former Yugoslav territory is closer than Tirana and we had decided to test the logistics of having YMCA guests coming to/from Shkoder arrive/depart in Montenegro. En route to the border we stopped at Restaurant Dardha (The Pear) for lunch.

While eating it came to our attention that David Beckam’s BMW X5 car is being driven in Albania. It is now Becks ex-Beamer. Apparently the car was stolen (allegedly) from England and driven through Europe until it reached the border with Albania (this is why there are so many ‘foreign’ cars in Albania). The story goes that at the border the Vehicle Identification Number was checked. The car was found to be stolen and confiscated by the police. Whether they knew the original owner or not is a matter for debate, though I am inclined to think so.

However, rather than being returned, the vehicle was given to the Minister of Integration as his business car. The media certainly did know who had originally owned the car and when challenged and asked if he intended to return the car to Mr. Posh Spice the minister replied “If Beckam asks for it I will return it, but so far there has been no request”. And who says politicians do not try to do the right thing? A further twist in the tail is that elections were recently held in Albania. The new Minister of Integration is female. This is quite possibly noteworthy in its own right. Her answer when asked if she intended to keep the same car for business? “Beckam is my favourite player. I will keep it”. So Becks, if you are reading and have not already cashed in the insurance policy and upgraded to a Ferrari or similar, give us a shout and we’ll track that car down. (Disclaimer: This information was obtained per chance, through casual lunchtime conversation, and cannot be verified for accuracy. As such it is hearsay. That said, no alcohol was consumed by any party during the meal!)

The trip to Podgorica and back provided other ‘challenges’. There is no direct link from Shkoder to the capital of Montenegro. You can take a taxi, but that seems unreasonably high – about €60. We were driven to the border by Fatmir, leader of YMCA Shkoder. We had intended to walk across the border and find a taxi on the other side to take us to Tuzi where we would then catch a bus to Podgorica – this was already sounding like a lot of work for a 35km/25 mile trip. However, at the border Fatmir saw someone he knew (not a surprise as he seems to know almost everyone) and negotiated our ride to Tuzi. The fee was waived as we were friends of Fatmir.

I was going to say our safe passage was negotiated in the above sentence. However, once into Montenegro the narrow road climbs, twists and turns along the shoreline of Lake Shkoder, throwing oncoming traffic, blind curves, and a surface full of cracks, potholes and undulations at you. (This is the same road that I will cycle on my ride north and the potential hazards were well noted). At one point while driving far too fast for the conditions and on the wrong side of the road, the driver locked the wheels up in order to avoid a head on collision with an oncoming 18-wheeler/articulated lorry. We skidded to the side of the road and the truck blew by us. Obviously we made it, but if I’d had some rosary beads I would have been clutching them tightly.

Podgorica is a small, somewhat overpriced city. The main attractions are the central park with an old Orthodox church, and monument to fallen partisans during WWII, mount Gorica, and the downtown pedestrian area. One night was certainly sufficient to see what the city had to offer.

Adam departed and my journey back was more interesting than my arrival. My instructions before leaving Albania were simple: reverse what you did to get there – bus to Tuzi, taxi to border (€5), walk through the border and you will see a minibus (which I had seen as we approached the border the day before). The plan started unravelling quickly. Firstly, my Serbian does not extend much past ‘hello’, ‘thank you’, and ‘good day/night’. The lady at the bus station did not speak English but understood I needed to go to Tuzi. “No” she said and pointed around the corner - “information”. I am not sure where she was pointing but my search yielded now information office. The few people I spoke to, including at the hotel, had no idea of where the bus to Tuzi left from. Plan B was needed and a taxi was summoned. Price - €25. The taxi driver had an even heavier foot than the driver when we entered the country, and soon the G-forces were pulling me to and fro, back and forth (no seat belt) as we whipped around curves, accelerating and decelerating. He offered to take me all the way to Shkoder, but for €60 this was too expensive.

Crossing the border was simple and I paid the obligatory €10 tax as at that time I had not secured my resident permit. Though, on a brief side note, I am happy to report that I am now the proud owner of said permit and can come and go as I please with no fee.

Finding the minibus proved more of a challenge though. I walked the 500m past the border crossing to where the bus had been the day before. Nothing. I had checked at the border crossing and other than large trucks parked at the café there were no waiting vehicles. I walked some more. It was a hot day: crystal clear blue sky, sun beating down at 3 in the afternoon. I was dressed in a long sleeve shirt (sleeves rolled up) jeans and quite possibly the worst pair of shoes I own for walking a long distance in. No sign of a minibus. I kept walking. I had one small bottle of water and no food. It was hot. It was 15 miles to Shkoder. I was now getting a taste of what many Albanians have to endure on a daily basis. Hitchhiking in Albania was now my one realistic way out of this situation. The first few cars flew by and I made no effort to stop them as I could see all the seats were full. Then for several minutes nothing passed me and I began to ponder the wisdom of my lack of effort.

However, as I approached a petrol/gas station there was a Mercedes (what else?) pulled over with three generations of one family sitting inside. Windows were open as they talked to members of another family standing alongside. I walked past to assess the situation and then turned back and asked the driver through the window if he was going to Shkoder. “No, Bajze” was his reply. I had no idea where Bajze was but he told me it was between where I was standing and Shkoder. While I was stumbling through our conversation the Grandmother gave me the command “hajde” (apologies to Albanians for spelling) - which means ‘let’s go’ – and I jumped in, unsure of where I was actually going. The young child in the back stared at me most of the time, and did not respond to my inquiries of ‘how are you?’ and ‘what is your name?’ The grandmother told me, in English, she had lived in England for 3 years – in Essex (my home county) – but could say no more than that. Conversation was stunted due to lack of language, and the sound of air rushing through four open windows at 90+ km/hr.

Bajze is about 1/3 of the way to Shkoder and we were soon there. From there I caught a bus, along with the grandmother (who got off in Koplik) to Shkoder. During the ride there was much conversation from the other members of the bus about me – “Where is the Englishman going?”, “Shkoder? What does he do there?” is what I believed the discussion to be. I understood some of the talk and listened for a few moments wondering if someone would speak to me directly or just talk about me. There was nothing harmful in their conversation, but it was an interesting situation. When there was a pause in conversation I told them I was going to Shkoder and that I lived and worked there. Compliments, very generously, were given as to the proficiency of my Albanian. Though it was then quickly established that I do not possess the ability to have a conversation as I greeted their words with ‘I am sorry, I do not understand’.

With our adventures to/from Podgorica completed, we decided that although farther away, it is still much more convenient, friendly and cheaper to fly in/out of Tirana. This is combination of lack of reliable transport links between Shkoder and Podgorica, overbearing and impolite airport staff and the high exit fee to leave Montenegro.

The bike ride is approaching fast: in two weeks I will be calling Sarajevo, Bosnia home for two nights. My excitement level is beginning to rise despite the thousand-and-one things I still feel I need to do. However, now that mid-May is here a sense of immanency has arrived with it. Many hours have been put in the saddle over the last few weeks and I have successfully managed a 4 hour test ride with the trailer. Over the last few days I hosted Simon Herzog, a YMCA employee from Switzerland. He is cycling around Kosovo, Macedonia, and Albania visiting YMCAs and seeing first hand the work they are doing. His intent is to take these stories back to Switzerland to support the fundraising event for Balkan YMCAs that his YMCA will run in September. Having arrived by ferry from Italy on Tuesday, he left this morning en route to Pukë and Kukës and will cross into Kosovo tomorrow, finally arriving in Prizren. This is quite possibly the toughest route he could have started with. Steep climbs and descents, ‘iffy’ roads, a significant gain in altitude, and unstable climate caused by the mountains. Still, as the Swiss say: there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing!

Besides having the opportunity to talk to a fellow Y employee/bicycle fundraise, Simon’s visit has buoyed me: he brought me two things I needed but could not get in Albania – camping gas for my stove and a new rear cassette (set of cogs for the gears on the back wheel for the non-cyclists among you). The first of these items is ready to use. However, the slight issue with the cassette is that none of the ‘biçiklist’ repair stands here have the correct tool to replace it :-(. So, this will make up part of my luggage, along with new chain, until I get to Sarajevo or Budapest and can get this repair made.

This weekend will see me cross into Montenegro ‘fully loaded’ to test the setup one more time and spend the night in the tent somewhere. Then it will be back to Shkoder on Sunday before catching the bus to Tirana that afternoon ahead of my 5 am Monday morning flight to Kiev, Ukraine for the YMCA Europe General Assembly from May 14-20. Four days back here and then it is ‘Finland here I come’. The full ride schedule is available by clicking the link to the right.

Near my apartment is a music ‘store’. As a way of advertising his presence, the store owner has loudspeakers set up outside and blasts those within earshot with an eclectic musical repertoire – from Arabic, to Albanian, to classic 80’s like the Bangles and Bonnie Tyler, to the occasional jazz or classical piece. Currently the Albanian version of The Police’s ‘Every Breath You Take’ is playing. The local version is sung by a female and includes Albanian rap. The melody is the only thing I recognize. Albania is indeed a country of energy, enterprise and contrasts.

Come visit sometime.

YMCA Activities and Challenges

The major work recently has been on securing legal registration in the court system for the YMCA in Shkoder. This will move the organization here from one of an informal group to a legally registered entity. As in most countries around the world, this local YMCA will be affiliated with the national office of YMCA Albania, but will be independent and able to form its own board, constitution and make decisions locally about its governance, structure, programs an how to best serve the local community. Formal status will also allow YMCA Shkoder to apply for funds/grants in their own right without having to pass everything through the National office in Tirana. Even though we are creating an organization in Shkoder, the paperwork must be filed at the court in Tirana. Fatmir and Artan (volunteer director and board member respectively) have been working hard and travelling to the capital frequently to keep the process on track. Yesterday we heard that we have been ‘provisionally approved’ for registration though there were a couple of questions raised. These questions have been answered and we are awaiting the final verdict. Fingers crossed.


Recently I visited the school for Roma children and the Roma community to see the 'encampment' and to visit a family that benefited from one of the sewing machines. The YMCA is at work in both the school and the Roma camp and through donations from St. Albans Baptist Church in England has been able to provide four women with sewing machines in order to mend/make clothes for the community.


There is a challenge facing the operation of the school - many parents are not sending their children due to the need for money/food, via begging, outweighing the need to sit in a classroom. Fatmir and I have discussed a possible solution being for the YMCA to provide school lunches for the children - when the Y has provided a 'day out' and provided lunch attendance has been very high (130 versus the fifty usual attendees) and this has led to increased attendance in school for the next few days until the children/parents realise there is not more food and go back to begging. In a perfect world the 'food' component would be part of a much larger program tackling the issue of child abuse/behavioural issues and would include a school counselor, social workers (for children and to educate the parents on the need/importance for their child to attend school) and recreational activities. However, this of course takes money and donors that have the ability to fund such a program are not so easy to find. However, we will continue to make contacts and see what doors may open for the YMCA to address this important need.


The lady with the sewing machine was very happy to have received it - she lives in a two room house with 15 other people, one of whom has sold her blood every two months for the last 35 years to make money - and has put it to good use making dresses for family/community. I suggested to Fatmir that it could be worth looking into developing this idea further and having the women make clothes for sale - to the Shkoder community and for distribution/sale at international Y events - with revenues being returned to the Roma community. Hopefully this can be explored further.

Visiting the 'encampment' was a sobering experience. There is a one-room cinder block building on the right as you go into the camp. The 'director' of the camp lives in this one room. His room was being used for youth/community activities (chess, dominoes, etc.) until recently. The Y had helped him put a door and windows in his 'home' in exchange for the use of his room for X number of months. That timeframe has now passed and he wants €75 per month for use of the space. The other major issue facing the community there is the lack of potable water. There is a hand pump, but this water cannot be drunk. €300/$500 will pay for the drilling of a well and an electric pump which will supply this area and greater Roma community with potable water. Hopefully funds can be secured for this project in the near future.

Additionally, there is interest on the part of both the YMCA and a local school to operate a day camp this summer. The school is the oldest in Shkoder and is the only 'mainstream' school in the city that accepts Roma children - they have 6 enrolled. The concept is for the YMCA to operate the camp at the school and serve 40-50 children for an 8-10 week period. The idea is in its infancy, but it is hoped they will be able to offer a program containing both recreational. Without the camp a bleak picture is painted: children home alone, or playing football in the street next to speeding vehicles as there is virtually no recreational space for activities to take place in the city. Once again, lack of financial resources - on the part of the parents, the YMCA and the school (teachers often use their own money to buy supplies) - is the main hurdle to overcome.

Tune in regularly for updates on these on other YMCA issues/events.

Balkan YMCAs need your help

Ian’s Ride for Balkan YMCAs

“Balkans To The Baltic” (Albania to Finland)

2007 YMCA World Service Campaign

To raise money for YMCA programs in the Balkans, YMCA Europe employee Ian Luck will be cycling 3300 km / 2100 miles, via 12 countries, from Shkodër, Albania to Jyvaskyla, Finland in May and June, 2007. His goal is to raise $20,000 of the $75,000 needed for YMCA development in the region. His route will take him from Albania through Montenegro, Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, before finishing in Finland on Midsommer’s Day (June 21). Regular ride updates will be posted to this blog.

· $190 - Average monthly salary in Albania, Europe’s 2nd poorest country
· 900 - Number of youth exposed to the YMCA in Macedonia
· 300 - Number of Shkodran children without access to education for over 15 years
· $0 - Average salary of YMCA employees in Albania and Macedonia
· 300 - Number of orphaned children served by YMCA Bulgaria
· 0 - Sports programs offered outside the YMCA by local schools and organizations in Albania
· 30 - Number of children receiving 100% scholarship to play football in Macedonia
· $45,000 - Cost of a new youth center providing youth leadership, education, sports and other socially relevant programs to the citizens of Shkodër.

YOU CAN HELP MAKE IT BETTER

Your gift will be used to support YMCA programs in one or more of the following areas:
· Health Education: YMCA programs focused on reducing health risks, raising awareness of reproductive health and preventing drug abuse. The YMCA in Ruse, Bulgaria, is delivering HIV and AIDS awareness and drug abuse prevention education among prostitutes leading to healthier lifestyle choices.
· Investing in young people: Through the creation of Youth Activity Centers in Plovdiv (Bulgaria), Shkoder (Albania) and Prishtina (Kosovo) YMCAs provide education, leadership development, and social programs. Through volunteerism, service-learning and other methods, YMCAs assist youth in building relationships, leadership skills and work habits.
· Education: Through the YMCA Macedonia Youth center in Radishani, and the YMCA school in Shkoder, Albania, more than 350 Roma children age 5-14 are now receiving formal education including reading, drama, mathematics, and computer science.
· Strengthening YMCA Movements: Technical and financial resources help YMCAs develop effective leadership, implement sound financial practices and uphold their mission allowing them to better serve needs in their local communities (Macedonia, Albania, Bulgaria, Romania, Kosovo)

However, in order to ensure the operation of these programs we must first raise $75,000

$50 covers the cost of sports jerseys for a team
$100 provides 8 youth with a YMCA membership
$250 will allow a teenager to receive leadership development training
$500 will allow 30 children to attend school by providing desks, chairs and educational materials
$1000 provides a computer for the internet / learning center. (Eight are needed)
$5000 provides the necessary furniture and multimedia equipment (laptop/LCD projector) for the Education Classroom.

Make your commitment today to help the youth of the Balkans by clicking the 'donate now' link on the right of this page

Help us build strong kids, strong families, and strong communities worldwide

Shkoder - foothills of the Accursed Mountains

‘Tungjatjeta’ from Shkoder - a medium sized, attractive city in the northern Albania. It is considered the cultural capital of Albania and boasts the largest Mosque in the country and the biggest Catholic Church in the Balkans. In a region of such ethnic intolerance, Shkoder (Albania in general) could provide a lesson in living together respectfully. Shkoder is also one of the rare cities in the world that have both lakeside and mountain climates side-by-side: The city sits on Lake Shkoder, the largest lake in the Balkans, and is overlooked by the western end of the Accursed Mountains.

Lake Shkoder is divided between Albania and Montenegro with only 1/3 in Albania. Adding to Shkoder’s natural surroundings are three rivers, Kiri, Drini and Buna, which confluence at the southern end of the city. This is all overlooked by the ruins of Kalaja Rozafa (castle), within whose walls a fair maiden, Rozafa, was buried alive during construction in order to fortify the walls (according to local legend).

There are two borders with Montenegro close by: The closest at Muriqan is only 16km / 10m away. This is a small crossing and is not particularly busy (judging from the activity going on when I have cycled there), even though it is on the main road from Albania to the coastal/resort town of Ulcinj in Montenegro. The second, and major, crossing is at Hani i Hoti, 35km/21m North of Shkoder. This is on the main road from Albania to Podgorica, capital of Montenegro and only 56km/35m away, and therefore well used.

When living in Tirana, upon asking a question about Albania I was always greeted with a question preceding the answer: “Are you asking about Tirana or Albania in general?” Prior observations had already confirmed the answers would be different. Despite the stunning natural beauty of the country as a whole and the outstandingly friendly and helpful people, life outside Tirana is significantly different. Gone are the (relatively) bright lights, late night cafes/clubs, hubbub, bridal shops (yes, there are lots of them), wealth, and energy associated with capital cities. Replaced instead with rural landscapes, more obvious signs of poverty, a lethargy and especially in small, rural towns, a ‘look’ of hardship etched on the faces of the inhabitants. Life in many of these small villages I am sure is tough. Trash litters the roadsides and (as in Tirana) to the uninitiated the only two rules of the road are:
Do what you want
Don’t hit anything

That said, many Shkodrans cycle. Far more than in Tirana. Presumably a combination of a) less chance of being prematurely sent to your grave as a result of decreased traffic volumes and b) the lower income levels, making vehicles less affordable. The main road into Shkoder from Tirana is, to put it mildly, appalling. However, to be fair, this appears to be due to a large sewer (I assume) pipe being laid down the middle of it. The questions with unknown answers are:
1. When will the work be finished?
2. Will there be enough money to complete the work and return the road to an acceptable state?

This though does present the intrepid cyclist with the chance to sprint up the inside of cars, leaving them in my dust, weaving in and out of potholes with forward momentum only occasionally thwarted by gravel-traps. All good training.

However, there are many things to enjoy about Albania (whether in Tirana or the ‘country’): Fruit and vegetables that are full of colour, taste and not touched by GM engineering; the people – their generosity and friendliness/helpfulness is sincere (such as the time I and a friend were locked outside a hotel in the city of Berat at night a few weeks ago or last week when, ashamed of how muddy my bike was I broke down and took it to a ‘car wash’ – the Albanian man scrubbed and rinsed my bike twice by hand, sprayed the tires with his car treatments and made the bike look thoroughly brand new again. However, he would accept no payment); the fact that there are no strict rules of the road – ride anywhere, do not hit anything; the ‘honour’ code of conduct - guests in Albania are treated with dignity and respect (see above): there are a few times I could have been ‘swindled’ due to misunderstanding if I was being charged in ‘old’ Leke or ‘new’ Leke, but I have never been taken advantage of (to the best of my knowledge anyway); the rugged, natural beauty of the country;

As for the YMCA in Shkoder: It was founded in 2001 and has been actively serving the local community since. The main program is serving the Roma (gypsy) community that lives predominantly on the outskirts of town across the one lane bridge traversing the Buna River, on the edge of Lake Shkoder. In this part of town, the poverty is desperate. Water is hand-pumped, children in various states of clothing play games in the street or rummage through mounds of trash at the side of the road in the hope of finding something of value. Value is of course relative. I have seen children, wide-grinned with delight to find a plastic ‘scooter’, and carry it home, despite the fact it is cracked, has no wheels and to you and I would be utterly worthless.

It is in this context, the YMCA caters for the needs of 250 Roma children age 5-14 years. Services to this population include the most basic human needs: providing clothing and food. The YMCA also supplies sports equipment, learning materials and occasional day trips/picnics for the children. All this is accomplished with a budget of €5000/$6500 per year.

Recently the YMCA participated in an 'educational walk' as part of the 'Leave no child out campaign'. This was a local activity raising awareness of the children that are being left behind without access to formal education and had significant media coverage and top regional officials present. As mentioned last time, the latest development in this project is that the YMCA and local education authority have partnered to create a school which will allow 300 Roma children to attend school. These children have not had access to formal education for 15 years. The school building is finished, and through the generous support of St. Albans Baptist Church in England, two classrooms have been outfitted with furnishings and teaching/learning supplies and lessons are underway. Since last writing, monies to outfit the remaining 8 classrooms have been secured through the Ministry of Education. The long term goal is that these children will be integrated into the ‘regular’ education system/civil society through YMCA programs.

Having been here two weeks, and with the support of YMCA Europe and YMCA of the USA, all attention and available resources are being focussed on developing YMCA Shkoder (while still serving/helping our YMCA friends in Tirana).

Therefore, the plan of action for my remaining stay is three-fold at this point and is as follows:

· Develop an ‘internationally-recognized’ NGO governance/operating structure for YMCA Shkoder
· Focus YMCA efforts on the completion and sustainability of the new Roma school program and creation of a Youth Center in Shkoder, while taking advantage of other ongoing opportunities (summer camps, etc.)
· Hold the national General Assembly

Specific steps in the Operational Development Plan for YMCA Shkoder include:
1) Creating a YMCA purpose statement and logo
2) Developing Bye-laws and Constitution
3) Developing a local board of advisors
4) Orienting YMCA leaders and volunteers on History/function of YMCA:
5) Creating Program goals
6) Developing goals and timeline/targets for 2007-2009
7) Relationship building with potential partners

With this forming the backdrop of our ongoing work, the next major initiative of YMCA Shkoder is to create the Youth Centre I referred to last time. The plan is to raise 20% (approximately US$15,000/£8,000/€12,000) of necessary funds here within Albania with the rest being secured from international donations (individual/business contributions and grants). While the amount to be generated within Albania does not seem high compared with Western/Northern standards, when you consider that the average salary in Albania is a mere US$190/£100/€150 per month, it will be quite a challenge.

As far as the Balkan-Baltic sponsored bicycle-ride portion of fundraising is concerned, the goal is US$20,000/£12,000/€16,000. The route is finalized, necessary visas applied for, website and links created, training well underway and host YMCAs notified. Promotional materials will be distributed by the end of next week.

Stay tuned for more from the Land of the Eagle. Best wishes to you all and thanks to all of you who reply to these updates and keep me posted on what is happening back ‘home’ – wherever that may be.

Mirupafshim,

Ian Luck

Border Crossings and Cheddar Cheese

“ Next time be more careful Mr. Luck”, “Sorry Mr. Luck, we cannot let you board the plane”, “Your passport is missing information – do you have other forms of ID?”, “Our telephone number only works from land-line not a cell phone”, “THIS time, I forgive you”. These were just some of the phrases directed towards me during recent travels in and out of Albania.

Turns out I was illegal after all in Albania and that the information the police gave me was wrong. Well, sort of. Can I stay in Albania 90 days in a calendar year as told by them? Yes. BUT, only 30 days on any one entry. Therefore when leaving for New Year in Finland at my brothers I was busted as illegal. Despite only having been in Albania for 58 days. After pleading my case and offering to pay the 200Euro/$250 fine (presumably for being lazy and silly enough to trust the police as I had not read the 12 sheets of A4/8.5x11 paper that were posted on ‘billboards’ around the airport for foreigners) I was told I was forgiven this time.

So…having arrived back in the country on Jan 5 and knowing I needed a residence permit (Austrian Airlines had prevented me from boarding in Helsinki as I did not have one or a return ticket within 30 days) else face leaving the country again in 29 days, I got the necessary paperwork in order. All that is except for the UK police background check. This has been the stumbling block all along. Turns out that in the terrorist-ridden age we live in, the only way to apply for such a check is to appear IN PERSON at a UK police station. No giving Power-Of-Attorney to a family member, etc. Nope, in person or it does not happen. This is a little tricky when you have lived outside the UK for 12 years and are now in Albania. Not exactly a day trip to get there and back. Then on top of it, it will take up to 6 weeks from the application date to get a result. SIX WEEKS – this makes Albanian bureaucracy look supremely efficient. What to do? Really could not justify the cost of a trip to UK just to visit a police station. Plan trip for weekend in Montenegro and reset 30 days appeared a good short term solution – and as long as I did not leave the country once my 90 days were up , there would be no problem. No-one would be looking for me.

As fate would have it my Green Card renewal appointment came up. I got 10 days notice to be in Charlotte, NC, USA on Jan 24. The proverbial two birds with one stone. My return ticket to US went through London. After more than trouble than it should have been (amazingly British Airway’s number in Albania cannot be reached by using a Vodafone cell-phone) my tickets were changed and I had a day in London to take care of background check business. Green card interview went well and consisted of sitting in a room with about 60 other people before being called to have my photo and fingerprints taken. That was that. Done and dusted for another ten years I guess.

Despite delays getting in and out of US due to weather in Chicago, then Charlotte, an acute attack of gout preventing me from walking, then a supposed airline strike by BA on the way back, I made it back to Albania following my brief stint across the Atlantic. Now, time to do some real work.

Though I had been working on budgets and business plans, plus volunteer job descriptions while away I was looking forward to getting moved to Shkodra and getting immersed in YMCA Albania work. Since I last wrote, the school for Roma children in Shkodra has opened. For the last 15 years, a significant number of children have not had access to education. Through a partnership between the YMCA and the Ministry of Education a new school has been built with both parties contributing resources. Most of the funds generated by the Y have come from St. Albans Baptist Church in England. Two classrooms are currently equipped and the YMCA is working on raising the rest. The Prime Minister was present and it was a bells and whistles event. Shame I was sitting in a room ran by the Department of Homeland Security in the USA while this was going on. Two classrooms have been completely furnished due to the generous efforts of St. Albans church and it is my understanding that the relevant government ministry will furnish the remaining classrooms, allowing up to 300 Roma children to attend school. For the majority this will be there first time in a classroom setting. After school hours the YMCA will have use of some portion of the facility and is also the agency of choice in organizing and running the re-integration programs for the Roma community.

In Tirana, YMCA Albania has a new group of volunteers that have been active since the start of the new year. They are currently involved in creating a vision/plan for the Y through 2010. So far they seem to be making good progress. We are also working on holding the General Assembly and creating a new, autonomous NGO structure for YMCA Shkodra. This will allow them to work independently of the National board and hopefully make them more efficient in some of their endeavors. Additionally, new YMCA office space has been secured in Tirana. This was an important step as the current office lease expired at the end of February and there is not money to cover a new lease. However, the new office is free and has the distinction of being placed, along with many other NGOs in the ‘Pyramid’ – the building which served as the mausoleum for the late communist dictator, Enver Hoxha (Hoja)

The ‘big’ project during my remaining time here will be helping YMCA Shkodra develop their Youth Activity Center. This will provide: a library, study center, internet and computer resource center complete with training classes, leadership development program, camping opportunities for youth, language courses, sports programs, coffee shop and regional YMCA office. Through the sale of memberships and revenue from internet usage and the coffee shop this operation will be self-sustaining. Thus we will shortly begin a fundraising campaign to raise the necessary $75,000 required to make this project a reality. Part of the plan is for a sponsored trans-European bicycle ride from Albania to Finland. You will of course be hearing more about this as plans progress.

Last week I secured an apartment in Shkodra and had planned to begin the moving process earlier this week However, due to a family emergency on part of the landlord that has had to be delayed.

At present I am sitting in Vienna airport – no passport, exit/entry issues so far – en route to Norway. Following that I return to Albania for about 18 hours before boarding the overnight bus to Skopje, Macedonia. While there I will attend the YMCA Field Group meeting for that country which consists of YMCA partners, from various European countries, meeting with our Macedonian counterparts to strategize and plan how to strengthen the YMCA in Macedonia.

OK – I did not get this posted as soon as I had hoped. The bus ride was easier than expected and the only issue was returning when a lady in her 50’s was ejected from the bus at the border crossing for having incorrect papers (I believe). I was treated with the usual cursory look and commanded to pay €10 entry tax.

The meeting in Macedonia was a success with the major decision being that the two YMCA organizations existing there (YCS and YMCA) reached an agreement allowing YCS to take on the role of the National organizational (recognized by YMCA Europe and YUSA) with the local YMCA being a member organization of National. IT is a complicated story of how two YMCA’s came to co-exist but the result now is that there will be one internationally recognized organization which will open up new opportunities for the youth in that country.

Back in Albania I have moved one load of stuff to Shkoder, having staggered to the bus station, during this last week. This weekend I will have the help of an American co-student from my Albanian class to help me move the rest of my belongings in his newly purchased VW van. This conjures up images of ‘bodge-it and son’ removals, but I have nothing really to break except crockery, so should not be too much trouble. Apparently payment is expected in the form of English Cheddar next time I am back there. Definitely will need to issue an IOU on that one.

On that note, I will sign off. More from Southern Europe later this month. Mirupafshim.

Ian

Balkan YMCAs need your help

Ian’s Ride for Balkan YMCAs

“Balkans To The Baltic” (Albania to Finland)

2007 YMCA World Service Campaign


To raise money for YMCA programs in the Balkans, YMCA Europe employee Ian Luck will be cycling 3300 km / 2100 miles, via 13 countries, from Shkodër, Albania to Jyvaskyla, Finland in May and June, 2007. His goal is to raise $20,000 of the $75,000 needed for YMCA development in the region.

His route will take him from Albania through Montenegro, Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, before finishing in Finland on Midsommer’s Day (June 21). Regular ride updates will be posted to this blog.

· $190 - Average monthly salary in Albania, Europe’s 2nd poorest country
· 900 - Number of youth exposed to the YMCA in Macedonia
· 300 - Number of Shkodran children without access to education for over 15 years
· 300 - Number of children the YMCA plans to integrate into the school system this year
· $0 - Average salary of YMCA employees in Albania and Macedonia
· 300 - Number of orphaned children served by YMCA Bulgaria
· 0 - Sports programs offered outside the YMCA by local schools and organizations in Albania
· 30 - Number of children receiving 100% scholarship to play football in Macedonia
· $45,000 - Cost of a new youth center providing youth leadership,
e education, sports and other socially relevant programs to the citizens of Shkodër.


YOU CAN HELP MAKE IT BETTER

Your gift will be used to support YMCA programs in one or more of the following areas:
· Health Education: YMCA programs focused on reducing health risks, raising awareness of reproductive health and preventing drug abuse. The YMCA in Ruse, Bulgaria, is delivering HIV and AIDS awareness and drug abuse prevention education among prostitutes leading to healthier lifestyle choices.
· Investing in young people: Through the creation of Youth Activity Centers in Plovdiv (Bulgaria), Shkoder (Albania) and Prishtina (Kosovo) YMCAs provide education, leadership development, and social programs. Through volunteerism, service-learning and other methods, YMCAs assist youth in building relationships, leadership skills and work habits.
· Education: Through the YMCA Macedonia Youth center in Radishani, and the YMCA school in Shkoder, Albania, more than 350 Roma children age 5-14 are now receiving formal education including reading, drama, mathematics, and computer science.
· Strengthening YMCA Movements: Technical and financial resources help YMCAs develop effective leadership, implement sound financial practices and uphold their mission allowing them to better serve needs in their local communities (Macedonia, Albania, Bulgaria, Romania, Kosovo)

However, in order to ensure the operation of these programs we must first raise $75,000

$50 covers the cost of sports jerseys for a team
$100 provides 8 youth with a YMCA membership
$250 will allow a teenager to receive leadership development training
$500 will allow 30 children to attend school by providing desks, chairs and educational materials
$1000 provides a computer for the internet / learning center. (Eight are needed)
$5000 provides the necessary furniture and multimedia equipment (laptop/LCD projector) for the Education Classroom.


Make your commitment today to help the youth of the Balkans by clicking the 'donate now' link on the right


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