Tuesday, June 12, 2007

June 9: Suwalki to Juburkas, Lithuania - 163 km






Woke up tired. For the first time I really did not want to get on the bike. Following breakfast of eggs, bread and water I was on the road at 10:30. First stop was gas station across the road for water/chocolate supplies and an additional sandwich to supplement breakfast. I was expecting not a fun days riding - at least early on - as I would be heading up the N8 into Lithuania and expected, heavy traffic and no shoulder.

Crossed into Lithuania with little fanfare - not even a welcome sign. I had decided not to take the smaller road from Kalvarija due to gravel issues the previoius two days. However, when I passed it and saw its blacktop running parallel it convinced me to turn back and explore the quiet country roads I had originally planned. Exploration lasted less than 3 km before the surface turned to gravel. I re-plotted route and vowed to ride only on ''ņumbered' roads from now on.

In Griskabudis I stopped at a gas station to escape the sun. I needed no supplies, but did need shade for a few mins. Dalius and his friends were hanging out there. We got talking (he had lived in England for two years). I had planned to stop for only 15 mins, but when they asked if I would like to try Lithuanian vodka, how could I refuse? Red vodka and orange juice were purchased and after the obligatory photo call I was handed a glass of each. I downed the vodka and chased it with the juice - tasted like cough medicine. Not unpleasant, but did not produce the burning sensation from the depths of the gut to the throat that I usually associate with vodka. I politely declined a second round and following more banter rode on.

In Sakiai I loaded up on dinner supplies for the night and purchased a very late lunch. Then it was back in the saddle and on to Juburkas where I planned to find a site to camp. No real options presented themselves so I rode on. Checked on one possibility and, despite insect spray, was instantly attacked by mosquitoes. Not a good site. Rode on. Was beginning to get slightly concerned about the lack of woods, camp options when I spotted a house with tents in the garden, teens in the adjoining field and adults sitting around a picnic table. I wheeled over and asked if they knew where I could camp. "How many nights?" they asked. Just one, I replied and after a short conference they agreed I could camp in their garden.

I had just crashed a double 15-year old birthday party. There were about 15-20 teens present, music cranking in the background, bonfire going and the adults enjoying thier own conversation around the table. Having made camp I was invited to the table for food and drink. While my food of BBQ pork, cold rice covered in tomato ketchup, salad and bread was being dished up I had a decision to make: vodka or beer? I choose vodka again reasoning it was the smaller alcohol volume. I did not bargain on 5 toasts! - to Lithuania, to Albania, to Friendship, to other things that I have no idea what they were other than an excuse to drink and get hammered (a point which a few had already reached).

There was plenty of conversation and I felt truly welcomed and blessed to have found such company for the night. I did not sleep much, maybe 4 hours, as the teens partied hardy long into the night, screaming, cranking the music up, letting each others tents down - reminded me of the Greenbelt Festival in the UK in some ways (but about one ten-thousandth the size).

1 comment:

armis said...

Hi Ian ,
This is the guy who wrote was talking to you, Me and the other guy named Tomaz wanted to know if you had the picture of all of us sitting with some teens not just the adults. It would be really nice if you could put that picture up . Thank you!!!