June 13: Riga to Kabli, Estonia - 130 km

I had wondered why the computer in the Y office and in Gunta's house was an hour fast. However, I was too tired to question this as much as I should have. Through various hand signals Gunta's mother had told me she would be leaving this morning at 6:30 am and then returning at 8:30 am. I, in turn, told her I hoped to leave at 9:30 am.

I awoke at 7:30 and went to the kitchen - Gunta's mother was there. Strange I thought - she was not supposed to be back for another hour. And then what should have dawned on me two days ago struck me like a hammer blow: I had changed time zones! (I did not expect this until Helsinki) I checked the clock radio - 8:40. I would not be on the road for 8:30. Oh well, I knew the road was flat and hoped the wind would favour (or at least not oppose) me and knew I had a relatively short 130 km day.

Somewhat unusually for a capital city I instantly found the correct road and was soon rolling up the A1 toward Estonia. The wind was kind and was cutting across me from behind giving me slight push. This was the first day of riding I'd had a tailwind. Thank you Mother Nature. I was running straight up the coast and it was not long before I saw the Baltic Sea for the first time. I stopped at a beach for a break and a photo.

I was making great time due to the good road surface and the tailwind and figure I would only be in the saddle around 5 hours today. Awesome. The road was not too busy though busy enough to prevent much looking around. I turned off onto a quiet road near Ainzi that led to a small border post with Estonia. Upon entering Estonia there were several small villages with brightly coloured buildings and I passed a couple of fellow adventure-cyclists.

Having averaged 26 km/h for the day I made camp early, before 6 pm, at a beachfront site and could hear the waves crashing about 60 metres away. The other cyclists pulled up and made camp. Following dinner we talked about the stunning array of alcoholic beverages available at petrol garages compared to the very limited non-alcoholic selection. And that the only refrigerated drink coolers that worked were the ones with beer in - a warm coke was something I was getting used to. Andrea told the story of buying a bottle of tonic water, only to notice once the liquid touched her lips that it was already mixed with vodka! Seeing 1-2 drunks a day was common.

We watched the sun disappear beyond the horizon at gone 10 pm and then tried to sleep under the 'white' sky.

June 12: Riga

Lazy day today. Had a long, relaxed breakfast and the apartment to myself as Gunta had travelled to Tallinn and her mother had left early to work at the church. I wrote in my journal before updating the blog again. Felt like I should visit the Old Town and explore the UNESCO World Heritage city, but I felt devoid of energy and preferred to sit and write rather than walk (very unusual for me).

Finally the need for food was overwhelming and I decided to eat in the Old Town as an excuse to get there and at least see some of what the city had to offer. It was a hot day and what little strenght I had seemed to be draining from me. I rejected the 'Dickens Pub' as a lunch option and after and extensive search settled for the less than traditional pizza option. Still it was cheap, good, filling and above all, was what I felt like.

The small part of the Old Town that I did see was beautiful, though I did not spend long there. I had other needs that needed to be taken care of while in a major metropolitan area (as opposed to out in farmland) - namely I had one shopping purchase to make and needed a haircut. With both these tasks accomplished it was once again back to the apartment and some rest time.

I could not figure out how to use the washing machine - all the dials seemed to be in the right places but it would not start. I called in resources in the shape of Linda, who was working in the Y office next door and seemed a sort of permanent 'drop-in' tenant at Gunta's to help. No use, the washing maching directions were not in Latvian or English - personally, I think it was Finnish as there were a lot of 'Us' next to each other. So, I waited for Gunta's mother to come home.

When she arrived she had strawberries, cakes and cookies from the church. She insisted I eat. Though I had eaten only a short while before I could not communicate this and also did not want to offend (that is my story..) So, I tucked in. Gunta's mother spoke no English and me no Latvian or Russian. It was frustrating not being able to communicate even the simplest things such as to thank her for her hospitality. I hope she understood I was grateful.

Finally the washing machine ended, clothes were hung to dry and it was time for bed.

June 11: Jelgava to Riga - 45 km

Woke up very tired and was simultaneously hungry with no appetite. If the breakfast bar waitress had asked me what I wanted I would have replied 'sleep'. Fish for breakfast was not really what I wanted and so I forced myself to consume bread and jam with strong coffee. My appetite was obviously returning as I cleaned them out of bread!

It was still raining when I claimed my bicycle from 'left luggage' and began the short ride to Riga. It was an easy trip on the busy A8 road and though there was serious congestion once I crossed the river I found the Old Town without any problem. Now the fun started - how to find Gunta and the YMCA? I could not remember the acronym for the YMCA in Latvia, could not locate the email from Gunta on my email, the YMCA Europe site does not have the updated phone number, and so on. Eventually the lady at the Information Center tracked down a cell number for the YMCA and I was soon speaking with Gunta.

I arrived at her/her mother's apartment/YMCA Latvia office a little while later having ridden the cobblestone streets. Gunta made lunch and then told me not to mind her 'normal' dog - Rex, the bulldog - who can become 'homosexual' around men! Great. In the absence of canine amorous advances I took the opportunity to update my blog and catch up on emails in the YMCA office. I proofed an annotation for a research paper on the theory/practice of non-formal education within the youth sector (focussing on the YMCA) and spent the remainder of the day eating and then sleeping.

June 10: Juburkas to Jelgava, Latvia - 202 km

I thought a bird was trying to peck a whole in my tent and was about to wack it when I realised it was the father of one of the birthday boys with my breakfast - leftover pork, rice/ketchup and salad. At 7:30 the sun was already hot and while this was not my ideal 'breakfast of champions' I got as much food down me as I could manage.

I did know what to expect on the road today, but feared the worst - for the entire day and tomorrow I would be bombing up the A12/A8 toward Riga. This is THE main road from where I was into Riga and was likely to be heavily trafficked with juggernauts thundering by within inches of me. The attendant at the gas station in Skaudville insisted on placing a 'Ļithuania' sticker on the trailer - no problem. I had been pleasantly surprised at the lack of traffic so far and pulled in to a pizza restaurant in Kelme for lunch. Despite its exterior advertising, no pizza was available! Still, a good lunch was had and I was on the road again with my head down for Siauliai.

The landscape had not changed in two days, the only thing new was that now I was looking at Lithuanian farmland and not Polish. I passed my four-thousand-seven-hundred-and-sixty-second cow and began to daydream: what if Lance Armstrong came by (there used to be a Lithuanian rider on the Discovery team) and joined me for a section. Then in an act of great generosity he would contribute to the cause monetarily and also hook me up with a full-carbon Trek Madone ride. Schweet! Back to reality and thoughts turned to the rest of the day's ride.

I had thought it was 130 km from Joniskis to Riga and had considered going on into Latvia tonight to shorten the distance tomorrow. However, the sign said it was only 90 km between the two cities if I stayed on main road. I was sold and decided to bed down for the night in Joniskis.

I stopped at the famous Hill of Crosses (where Christians defied the communist regime and demonstrated their faith be sneaking to this point and planting crosses of all shapes and sizes.) There are thousands if not millions of them. It is simultaneously unsual, amazing and incongruous.

The road to Joniskis can be described in one word: straight. If you lay a pencil on the map between Siauliai and Joniskis the road disappears and I could see the church at the end of the treel lined road from 20 km away. Joniskis may have been a busy, thriving city at one time. However, at 6 pm on a Sunday it looked lifeless - forlorn factories, overgrown lawns everywhere, hardly a soul on the street, no shops open, no gas station. And certainly no cheap motel or camp option. I rode on. There was nothing between here and border and I was in Latvia 45 minutes later. There was nothing in Latvia either except one gas station where I got water and chocolate - again.

The lady at the gas station suggested I try the next city, Jelgava for accommodation/camping. How far away is that?, I asked. Twenty-six kilometeres. I was now riding mapless - I had cut my maps before leaving Albania in order to save weight and room. However, as I had now deviated from my planned route I was 'off the map'. I ploughed on to Jelgava covering the distance in about an hour and arriving at 9 pm.

It was time for a hotel. I got directions to the hotel Zemgale but could not find it, instead pulling up at the Hotel Jelgava. For 25 euros it was a done deal and I showered and then thought about dinner. Though the city looked attractive I really did not want to go back out. I opened the window, set up the camp stove and for the first time cooked pasta in my hotel room - lovely!

Discovered I had no phone coverage in Latvia, which was a downer as I could not communicate with my hosts for tomorrow night - YMCA Latvia. Tried to call from hotel but obviously had wrong number. Was too tired to worry about it tonight. The good news though, was that while my butt was definitely the worse for wear, I was now only 45 km from Riga. Tomorrow would be nothing more than a warm-up.

June 9: Suwalki to Juburkas, Lithuania - 163 km

Woke up tired. For the first time I really did not want to get on the bike. Following breakfast of eggs, bread and water I was on the road at 10:30. First stop was gas station across the road for water/chocolate supplies and an additional sandwich to supplement breakfast. I was expecting not a fun days riding - at least early on - as I would be heading up the N8 into Lithuania and expected, heavy traffic and no shoulder.

Crossed into Lithuania with little fanfare - not even a welcome sign. I had decided not to take the smaller road from Kalvarija due to gravel issues the previoius two days. However, when I passed it and saw its blacktop running parallel it convinced me to turn back and explore the quiet country roads I had originally planned. Exploration lasted less than 3 km before the surface turned to gravel. I re-plotted route and vowed to ride only on ''ņumbered' roads from now on.

In Griskabudis I stopped at a gas station to escape the sun. I needed no supplies, but did need shade for a few mins. Dalius and his friends were hanging out there. We got talking (he had lived in England for two years). I had planned to stop for only 15 mins, but when they asked if I would like to try Lithuanian vodka, how could I refuse? Red vodka and orange juice were purchased and after the obligatory photo call I was handed a glass of each. I downed the vodka and chased it with the juice - tasted like cough medicine. Not unpleasant, but did not produce the burning sensation from the depths of the gut to the throat that I usually associate with vodka. I politely declined a second round and following more banter rode on.

In Sakiai I loaded up on dinner supplies for the night and purchased a very late lunch. Then it was back in the saddle and on to Juburkas where I planned to find a site to camp. No real options presented themselves so I rode on. Checked on one possibility and, despite insect spray, was instantly attacked by mosquitoes. Not a good site. Rode on. Was beginning to get slightly concerned about the lack of woods, camp options when I spotted a house with tents in the garden, teens in the adjoining field and adults sitting around a picnic table. I wheeled over and asked if they knew where I could camp. "How many nights?" they asked. Just one, I replied and after a short conference they agreed I could camp in their garden.

I had just crashed a double 15-year old birthday party. There were about 15-20 teens present, music cranking in the background, bonfire going and the adults enjoying thier own conversation around the table. Having made camp I was invited to the table for food and drink. While my food of BBQ pork, cold rice covered in tomato ketchup, salad and bread was being dished up I had a decision to make: vodka or beer? I choose vodka again reasoning it was the smaller alcohol volume. I did not bargain on 5 toasts! - to Lithuania, to Albania, to Friendship, to other things that I have no idea what they were other than an excuse to drink and get hammered (a point which a few had already reached).

There was plenty of conversation and I felt truly welcomed and blessed to have found such company for the night. I did not sleep much, maybe 4 hours, as the teens partied hardy long into the night, screaming, cranking the music up, letting each others tents down - reminded me of the Greenbelt Festival in the UK in some ways (but about one ten-thousandth the size).

June 8: Lomza to Suwalki - 174 km

Worse start than yesterday - puncture after only 6 km! Yes, you know it, same problem with rear tire causing the issue. I needed food badly, 1 Snickers does not count as breakfast, and I know my blood sugar was low by the time I reached the first gas station of the day. My breakfast choices were limited: chocolate bars or nothing. I loaded up on Snickers and Mars bars. (I may never eat a Snickers or drink a Coke again after this trip - well, not for 48 hours anyway).

Decided that I may not make it to Riga on this tire and sent a SMS to Adam, my Polish boss, who was driving over to meet me in Suwalki for dinner, asking him to bring me a new tire. I knew he knew something about bikes as he had built at least one wheelset for his son - not an easy task. Duly the responses came: is it slick? 'yes'. OK, consider it done. Witih that weight off my mind I began the journey through Biebrzanski National Park.

To say the road was desolate is an understatement - it took 10 km for the first car to pass me. Before this trip, if you had asked me what the weather was like in Poland, I would probably have given the answer most people give about England: gray and rainy. For the last three days the sky had been a bright blue and I had been baked under the hot sun. Today was no different. I was roasting and grateful for the lunch stop in Gondiaz at the one restuarant the town had to offer.

From this point on the day went downhill. Once I found it, I took a left turn for Jasionow - I had already cycled 5 km past it before realising I was on the wrong road. The road was great for about 1 km when I crossed the river and local swimming spot where families were bathing. Immediately after the bridge the road turned to gravel. I asked how long it went on for - given the complete lack of common language between the two of us I am not sure my question was understood or if I understood the intended answer. However, my perception of what was communicated was that the gravel lasted for 35 km!!! I tried to ride it for few km to see - I was really not sure of the answer. It quickly became a sandy base I did well not to fall off as the front wheel slid away from me. I got off and could barely push the bike. I would have to turn back and re-route. This meant going 3 sides round a rectangle and adding about 25km or an hour and quarter to my ride time. Various four-letter words went through my mind. I was hot, tired, and hungry again alreday and the psychological part of the ride was now proving a big challenge.

I made hard work of getting to Augustow where I realised my tire had about 15 psi of pressure in it. I pumped it up and let Adam know I would not be in Suwalki for 7:30. Closer to 8:00 if I dropped the hammer. The hammer was dropped for 5 km - At this point my rear tire needed more air. I changed the inner tube. As I had finished but before inflating tire, Adam passed me and pulled over. The new tire was put on the bike. For time's sake, Adam took the trailer - I had 26 km to go - and I rode 'light'. Wow! I flew into Suwalki in less than an hour.

With Adam arriving in town first he had secured me a room for the night. At any other time I would not have given this bar/restuarant/hotel a second look. He assured me it looked better on the inside. For 20 euros it was what you would expect: water stained carpet, peeling paint, ongoing construction. I wondered if the place was a front for a brothel - the first 3 people I saw all looked like they could have been contestants in a hookers' beauty pageant - tight, short skirts/dresses, making sure the relevant bits were sucked in/sticking out in front of the mirror in the bar/reception area. Still, the room had a bed and a shower - all I needed. The shower was cold - apparently I was the only guest (what were the girls doing downstairs I wondered) and the water heater was only turned on after my arrival.

Adam toured me around the region - naturally beautiful with lakes and fields. We visited an old Monastery and Hermitage where the homes of the hermits had now been rennovated and were available to holidaymakers for the right price. It was an idyllic setting and understandable why first royalty and then Pope John Paul II used to vacation here. We entered the restaurant at 9:10 to be informed that food service ended at 9:00! They did at least let me buy water.

Following a good meal in a downtown Suwalki restuarant I retired for the evening. It was late and I decided to leave later than usual in the morning and lie-in. I was woken at about 3 am by the sound of doors slamming - at least 10. If Iwas the only guest, who was slamming doors? Maybe it was the girls changing shifts or possibly Madam checking the rooms with vibrating beds. I went back to sleep.

June 7: Tabor to Lomza - 165 km

I expected today to be a fast day - I would spend the majority of it on 'big'roads. Generally this equeates to a better road surface. After a breakfast of bread and honey I was off. My fast start lasted 16 km, then the rear tire issue caught up with me. I had survived two days on my 'fix'and figured if it lasted that long each time I could make Riga and replace tire there.

More woods and rolling hills. Instead of Mississippi Pine Forest, there were times I could have been in England - despite the fact that today the cars were on the 'ŗight' side of the road! - there was rich, dark green colour to the gently rolling landscape.

Two incidents stand out. The first was shortly after I passed a cyclist pulling out of a bus lay-by. He had a decent looking hybrid bike and had been adjusting his cargo: one grocery bag on each handlebar. I flew by him. He raced past me as soon as the road started to climb. Then he looked back as if to see how much distance he had on me. A second glance back. I needed no other incentive, the gauntlet had been thrown and it was 'game on'. He had about 100m on me and was moving at a pretty good clip. I still had 60 km to go and did not want to push too hard. The road was undulating enough to make it hard for me to catch him, but slowly I ate into his lead. Then came my reward: I saw a slight descent ahead - my wieght advantage would take me screaming past him and he'd be history (at least until the road climbed again). As if sensing 'the catch' he turned off down a dirt road and I did not get to taste victory. Still it made the last 8 km much more interesting than they otherwise would have been.

The second incident was more distressing. An ambulance was pulled over on the opposite side of the road and a police car was approaching with lights and siren in full swing and pulled up behind ambulance. As I drew level I looked over. The ambulance crew were standing around, no rush or concern, wating for the police officer. Lying on the grass was a bicycle, no sign of rider. The fact that the medics were standing around did not bode well for the cyclist and the words of John Murray, YMCA Buffalo-Niagara drifted through my mind - 'Do you think you can do this ride without getting hit by a car?' I'd had a few close calls and this site did not inspire confidence. About an hour later the cop passed me with the bike hanging out of the back of his car.

Today was the Corpus Christi holiday and I saw one procession, children dressed in thier Sunday best and girls dressed in white like angels. This was the start of a long weekend in Poland and despite all the stores being closed in Ostrow Maz. I did find a supermarket in Lomza and stocked up for the night. Bug spray was also bought to fend off the mosquitoes and black flies which had certainly detracted from the camping experience thus far.

I had already made camp and was about to get the stove going when from nowhere an old man a bike approached my tent. From his gestures I gathered he owned this part of the forest. I explained I was going to Finland and needed to sleep. 'OK' he said but motioned at the empty bottles and other trash that was littering the ground. I showed him my trash bags. He nodded and with his fears allayed gave a final 'OK' before riding off.